105 running issue

[donnelly.me]

I know this has nothing to do with the fuel issue but in the second pic I see the top of the spark plug is completely painted. That is not something I see very often. Can this cause any issues with ignition? I'm not trying to go off topic. Thanks, Mark

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by donnelly.me

I know this has nothing to do with the fuel issue but in the second pic I see the top of the spark plug is completely painted. That is not something I see very often. Can this cause any issues with ignition? I'm not trying to go off topic. Thanks, Mark

as long as the paint is cleaned off where the plug wire goes it shouldn't hurt anything.

[Yosemite Sam]

I like to get my timing issues resolved first so it is out of the way and I don't have wonder about it. Once the timing is adjusted, then it's done and out of the way. Then move on to carbonation.

[tpelle]

I've never checked the timing on either my 1000 or my 1200. I always, however, adjusted the points and made sure they were good.

Here's a little story: A few sears ago the 1200 was running poorly and I figured I'd replace the points and plug. When I went to the auto parts store I found that they didn't stock them any longer but could order them in! I needed to get the tractor running (grass was pretty high), so I figured I'd just put the old points back while waiting for the new ones. I noticed, however, that the plastic "block" that the pushrod pushed against had a slight depression worn in it. And even after setting the points to the correct gap the tractor still ran poorly. But when the new points came in and I installed them, the tractor then ran great. I thought about this and realized that the wear on the point assembly had affected the duration that the points were open, and thus the timing.

So I'm trying to get my head around this timing adjustment as it relates to point gap. From the link posted in the tech section I understand how to check the timing, but if it's off how do I make the adjustment?

[ol'George]

It is very simple, just loosen the screw and either open the points or close them and re tighten the screw and recheck that the points are opening just as the mark appears in the window.
It might take a few tries.
closer of farther apart affect when it fires,it's not rocket science.

[KiwiUSA]

update: I got it running, I went back to today and set the timing using a test light, it was not bang on but pretty darn close after resetting, I found that the points are closer then .020 to get the mark in the window. I cranked it over and on 2nd or third turn of the engine it popped off, it runs pretty good, a little jerky on the throttle cable but that mainly due to a worn butter fly shaft (going to replace the carb later on. It revs really good, in fact I never fully revved it the whole day while making adjustments and playing around with some other part replacements (I was afraid to in case it blew up......I mean it really revs!!)

Thanks to every one for the helpful comments, now I have to wait for my main wire harness and Regulator to arrive (I was running the engine straight off the battery with no electrics except for a coil hot wire) After I install those I can then finally see if it will move on its on.

One last thing, one tappet seems a little noisy, is it normal to reset the valves and if so how easy is it on these engines?

[johns cubs]

After reading thread about the timing i checked my running K301 and it was off quite a bit! And my gap was atleast .040. But she was running and only diff. I seen was that it started easier. What would have happened if i kept running it that way?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by KiwiUSA

It revs really good, in fact I never fully revved it the whole day while making adjustments and playing around with some other part replacements (I was afraid to in case it blew up......I mean it really revs!!)


One last thing, one tappet seems a little noisy, is it normal to reset the valves and if so how easy is it on these engines?

Yes, adjusting the valves sometimes needs done.

You need to reset the governor and set the high idle no-load. If the engine runs too fast......

Time to download the manual.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

Originally Posted by johns cubs

After reading thread about the timing i checked my running K301 and it was off quite a bit! And my gap was atleast .040. But she was running and only diff. I seen was that it started easier. What would have happened if i kept running it that way?

John
What happens when you run any engine out of time? You get less power, poor fuel economy, depending on whether it was advanced or retarded it may run hot, and damage to the engine will result over time. These engine are no different than any other.

[Yosemite Sam]

For the most part, you can pretty-much forget everything you know about points when it comes to the Kohler "K" series engines.

The only things that really make any difference are: The instant that the points stop making contact BANG the plug fires, and you want the "S" or "line" (which ever you have on your flywheel) in the middle of the window when this happens.

Since these engines are only firing 1800 times a minute and not 14400 times, duration doesn't really mean anything.

Simply put; It doesn't make any difference if the points open .020" or a foot and a half, as long as they get back closed again before 2 revolutions have elapsed, you are good.

It's all about WHEN the in the sequence of events the points break contact.

[Yosemite Sam]

Yeah Ok, I'm a little late getting that posted, never-the-less there it is.