Shimming front axle - Page 2

darkminion_17 · #11 08-26-2015, 09:42 AM

Very good Roland,maybe Jeff can make a kit .

R Bedell · #12 08-26-2015, 10:01 AM

Quote:

maybe Jeff can make a kit

Thank would be a good idea. He could make it with a "nylock" nut or a "castle" nut with a hole drilled in the bolt to accommodate a cotter pin.

Shrewcub · #13 08-26-2015, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Very good Roland,maybe Jeff can make a kit .

I'd buy a couple.

rdeyoe · #14 08-26-2015, 10:16 AM

Wow! Thanks Roland. I was just going to ask if anyone had some pics of the clearance issue. I had it in my mind that the oil pan was practically on top of the rear bushing, but there looks to be some space in there. Probably only half of the head of that bolt has been removed. Perhaps I could to a combination of shimming out the 0.10" gap and clamping with the bolt.

Arrrgh, time for another parts run!

R Bedell · #15 08-26-2015, 10:24 AM

A friend of mine and forum member Richard Christensen, done this modification in 2008. Knowing him, it was well thought out and is still holding up on his 1450 today.

Darrell · #16 08-26-2015, 10:47 AM

I used a the bolt and castle nut from an 82 series on the front axle of my 1650 ( I sawed about half of the bolt head thickness off in my bandsaw to clear the oil pan ) and the threaded end of the bolt would hit the mule drive making it useless.

I guess that is why the person in Rolands pics. used a thin nylon nut and cut the threads of the bolt off at the end of the nut.

olds45512 · #17 08-26-2015, 11:59 AM

You can't use a nylock or a castle nut because its to long and will hit the mule drive when installed, I use a regular nut and once I have it where I want it I cut through the nut and bolt at about half the thickness of the nut and put a tack weld on the end to keep the nut from loosening.

johncub7172 · #18 08-26-2015, 12:13 PM

That sounds beautiful, olds45512.

All I done for a shim on my QL, was simply find a steel washer that would fit the pin outside diameter { and not touch the bottom of the c-channel } , and sand the washer down flat on sandpaper until I was able to get that sucker between the c and axel. Was tuff to assemble, but it can be done. Think of this the same as a GM starter shim, basically in a nutshell. { I get paid full time to jerry fix, field fix, make work, and keep up the fight sort of job pretty good }

Replace the pivot pin keeper coil pin.

If my repair ever ceases to hold tight, I'm going the nut and bolt method. These wide frame are a lot harder to squeeze together than the narrow frame for sure.

rdeyoe · #19 08-26-2015, 12:44 PM

Thanks guys. Didn't think about the front side hitting the mule drive....definately don't want that, but doesn't completely rule out the bolt fix.

My pin didn't have a spirol type pin in it...it was a plain roll pin. Which leads me to believe that the pin has been replaced already. Seems a shame to completely replace it as it's in really good shape. Not a mark on it. Think i'll do the same as you johncub and just washer it up this time. If it wears out again, it's not like it's very hard to lift motor and go with the bolt.

johncub7172 · #20 08-26-2015, 01:39 PM

So far, mine has remained tight this year. I did shim behind the c-channel, and in front of the axel where you will find the large, flat surface of the axel. I found it difficult to shim after the front axel { behind }, and still line up the pin to the rear of the c-channel. Just me.

Maybe you can estimate using a feeler gauge as to how thick of a shim to start with. I'd guess .010" ?

Still, that bolt idea sounds awesome too.

take care