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#11
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If there is enough meat to the case, drill and tap for a helicoil and Loctite the stud into place. The better repair would be to turn an oversize bushing to fit a drilled and tapped case. There is also something called timeserts--a solid type thread repair, but more expensive.
For me, I would go the helicoil route. Studs are not meant to be unscrewed from the case repeatedly so helicoils will work. Just make sure the threads are all super clean before reassembling. Are you sure the threads are just stripped? I seen the cases cracked out around studs from levering a stuck saw out of a log. BTW, now you know why you don't loan out saws. Keep a loaner saw around, you don't care about. Maybe an old David Bradley nobody would dare touch. Chris B. |
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#12
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There are other types of thread repair besides Heli-coil. Look into thread repair on McMaster-Carr's website. I've used some of the screw in inserts with four staking pins that you drive in to secure the insert. Some of them require you to drill the hole for the thread oversize--follow the instructions. My concern on a saw would be there isn't going to be any extra metal for a larger thread. Face it, the whole object of die-cast is to use only as much material as needed to make the part so that it is lightweight and no material is wasted.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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#13
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20151114_192002.jpg
Yeah I am sure they are stripped and are no cracks. The holes go into the oil tank so i have to be real careful not to drill too deep. I know, I broke my #1 rule by lettin him use my saw. First and last time!! Gonna try the helicoil for now and keep my eyes open for a new half a case. I love this old saw! Its a little dangerous as it does not even have a chain break! But as long as you know what your doing and know where your tip is and you never need one anyways. Thanks to everyone who offered a salution!! Appreciated as always.
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John |
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