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#11
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1811woody; ah, i see now. You have the turn brakes on the right, yes? Does look a bit crowded on that side. I had a friend with that "other" tractor brand, a 318 model that had the turn brakes on the right also. That does complicate things a bit, but then again, you do have a little extra length to work with. Is it just a single brake on the left side? Maybe you could move the turn brakes to that side and do the hydro on the right. Would take a lot more work though...
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--Ryk |
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#12
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nice modification and great post thanks for sharing!
your method for making the arm that attaches to the shaft was brilliant, and was just the ticket to help me complete the controls for a dual stick spool valve setup I am working on.
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![]() -Mark 1978 1450 1976 1450 |
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#13
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Thanks CC1450. Actually, the lift controls is where i got the idea. I wanted to put my lift lever on the left of the tractor. Mine is a 1975 model, and the lift lever from the spool valve was pinned to the shaft. The pin had sheared and i couldn't hardly remove the lever or shaft, plus it would've been a pain to put a pin back in it inside the tower. I saw that IH had redesigned the lever on later models to a clamping system. That's where the idea came from. Cold bending 1/4" flat stock without a torch is difficult, but can be done. I start it in a vise with a hammer, get it past 90 degrees or so, then put it in a press with a bolt at the bend and some flat stock along it to keep the gap. I'm sure an oxy torch or mini forge would make it much simpler / neater.
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--Ryk |
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#14
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Rdeyoe, some of the foot control setups I have seen use a damper in addition to the self centering spring. The damper is suppose to keep the foot pedal from jerking when you hit a bump. I'm curious how your setup works when traveling across a bumpy yard. Do you have to fight the pedal or does it tend to stay in one place?
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Garry |
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#15
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Hey garrynok. Not sure what you mean by "fighting the pedal", My foot rests on the tread plate, so i'm not bouncing on it at all. The centering spring might could be a bit stronger actually. I've found that if i "floor" it, it tends to stick that way...kinda like a cruise control on high speed. A slight tap on the back side of the pedal and it returns, slowly to center again. I think maybe cutting the spring for more return pressure may keep it from sticking, but it works great where it is too.
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--Ryk |
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#16
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It's a perfect K.I.S solution, well done sir!
I never new what I was missing until I use the hydro foot control of my "carrot head". Now every time I use my QL I wish they had the same easy to deal with system.
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
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#17
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Quote:
Your thoughts?? |
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#18
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ironman, I think that would be a great idea. The one I saw on that loader project (can't find the link now) had an eye bolt setup for the spring tension initially, but his later post said that he found he didn't need it. I like it pretty much as it is, but i may put a bit more tension in it. For some reason, as simple as it is, I hate removing the screws on the driveshaft cover. I'm going to try and come up with a way to quick disconnect it. On aircraft we had panels held with dzus fasteners. That'd be a great way to put that and maybe the side panels on / off.
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--Ryk |
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#19
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#20
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The only downfall I see to that is if it doesn't hold the cover tight it might vibrate and make noise.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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