I got an 1811 with hydro trouble

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Oak

John, nice 1811. I agree with the others, keep the 1811, that is one of the best GT's ever made. The 1811's were built from 1986 to 1989 and yours was built in October of 1989. The rear plate is a bagger plate and they are the same as the cat 0 hitch plate. I would drain, flush and run some cheap TSC fluid with a new filter for testing purposes.

Thanks for the build date info Oak. Where do you guys manage to come up with the month an item was built?

Regarding the bagger plate, any reason to leave it on? I've never seen a rear bagger on a Cadet this big and only a couple on Deeres. Most machines this big around here used a trailer type collection system with an auxillary engine.

[john hall]

Thanks for all the input gang! I am going to discipline myself to finish the 782 scattered about the shop before I dive into this project. Glad to see everyone feeling strongly about the filter! I'll take apart and flush as needed. I may get some cheap oil to test with and then fill with hy-tran or hy-guard (whichever is on hand at that time). I may look for a cheap filter so I don't have to use one of those expensive Cadet filters.

Here is the million dollar question, where did the water come from? When I bought my 982 it had sat outside for apparently a few years. I pulled the rear and the fluid was quite reasonably clean, just a lot of the waxy residue I had to mop out. The filler cap looks OK, so is there anywhere I should look where water may have got in? Considering the fenders kept everything dry and the bottom side of the rear is clean and dry, I don't see how water could get in.

[Oak]

John, keep the rear plate on, it stiffens the frame on the tractor and keeps the rear kinda tight.

[105_Tom]

Originally Posted by john hall

Regarding the bagger plate, any reason to leave it on? I've never seen a rear bagger on a Cadet this big and only a couple on Deeres. Most machines this big around here used a trailer type collection system with an auxillary engine.

Those later series II MTD machines could be had with a 46GT deck that would accept a 3-bin rear bagger that would hang off of that mounting plate. The 882 I just (finally) sold was set up like that. I kept the rear plate after I switched to a 44C deck and mule drive. Now I'm glad I did after what Todd said. It may wind up on my 1512...

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by john hall

Thanks for all the input gang! I am going to discipline myself to finish the 782 scattered about the shop before I dive into this project. Glad to see everyone feeling strongly about the filter! I'll take apart and flush as needed. I may get some cheap oil to test with and then fill with hy-tran or hy-guard (whichever is on hand at that time). I may look for a cheap filter so I don't have to use one of those expensive Cadet filters.

Here is the million dollar question, where did the water come from? When I bought my 982 it had sat outside for apparently a few years. I pulled the rear and the fluid was quite reasonably clean, just a lot of the waxy residue I had to mop out. The filler cap looks OK, so is there anywhere I should look where water may have got in? Considering the fenders kept everything dry and the bottom side of the rear is clean and dry, I don't see how water could get in.

Condensation John, I'm sure you've seen warm moist days that make everything you own sweat. what you see on the outside as far as moisture is on the inside too.
I've got bigger farm tractors and I drain off near a quart of water from the sumps every year, especially the vintage 2 cylinder Deere's,as they are not operated much to burn it off and kept unheated inside so it is not getting in from rain.
Today was one of those days, *53 here in Mi. and high humidity.
the outside of everything in the barn was wringing wet, gives me a lousy feeling in the pit of my stomach.
FWIW:
Deere hydro filters are about $2.00 less than cub

[john hall]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Condensation John, I'm sure you've seen warm moist days that make everything you own sweat. what you see on the outside as far as moisture is on the inside too.
:

That was my guess, now I'm concerned about my 2072, I honestly can't remember ever changing the fluid since I got it. Filters yes, fluid I just don't know. Guess that will be on the spring maintenance list! Probably wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and change the fluid then I'll know. At the rate I seem to be going, I need to get a 5 gal bucket of Hy-tran!

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by john hall

That was my guess, now I'm concerned about my 2072, I honestly can't remember ever changing the fluid since I got it. Filters yes, fluid I just don't know. Guess that will be on the spring maintenance list! Probably wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and change the fluid then I'll know. At the rate I seem to be going, I need to get a 5 gal bucket of Hy-tran!

Look @ the bright side, it is less expensive in 5 gal pails.
Watch your local Ag dealers if you live in rural areas as they tend to run late winter sales on filters/hydraulic oil.
With crude prices as low as they are, there should be some price breaks on lube.

[PeterJ]

You can't have enough Hi-Tran around. I run it in all of my transmissions too.(Except 2014 Honda CRV) I bring in clean 2 1/2 gallon jugs and have them fill 'em out of the bulk barrel. Don't ask me the savings, I just pay the man. There is a small savings.

PeterJ

[john hall]

I buy it in 5 gallon containers, just never now how long it will last. Current shop projects would use 14-21 qts. My problem is being so far from a dealer. I may make a road trip to get 5 gal and a case of Low-ash oil.

[J-Mech]

Another vote for fluid and filter change. I don't think there is any reason to flush the pump with diesel fuel. I would flush the rear end out while the cover is off, but no need to dump it down the pump. With a rear that has not been changed in who knows how long, I put in new fluid, sometimes Sea Foam, run the tractor (use it) and warm it up good a couple times, then drain and refill. I would also suggest a "cheaper" fluid for the flush. O'Reilly's house brand Dexron III is about the cheapest around here, and they will price match. ATF has different detergents in it that help clean. I won't get into the oil debate, but if you are far from the dealer....... You decide. It is worth the time to pull the rear and take the axle tubes off and drill holes in the case. What gets in there is nasty, and won't come out unless you take it apart. Sure, it takes some time, and you have to seal it all back up, but in the future if you drain it again, you can rest assured your draining everything. Why on earth they didn't cast holes there is beyond me.