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  #11  
Old 05-11-2010, 04:59 PM
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aagitch aagitch is offline
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Matt, regarding the hiem joints. Are you ordering them from mcmaster? That's about the best place i could find. Also, are our supers and gt's all "lefty loosy, righty tighty" regarding the joints? I saw that was an option when ordering and I can't remember off the top of my head? I need to replace all the ones on my super too, even the steering cylinder.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2010, 07:11 PM
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Yep, they're all right-hand thread. I'll be ordering from McMaster-Carr tonight, probably.
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2010, 11:50 AM
squatch squatch is offline
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Just like Scott I ordered mine from Summit racing since I was ordering something else from them as well. nice joints good price. you will need the 1/2x5/8 cone spacers for the outer ends that Scott noted. $2 each.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:29 PM
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I'm not seeing what I'm going to need those for. The OEM tie rod ends have no such spacer, and I'm replacing them with Heim joints with a stud.
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2010, 02:32 PM
Danger Danger is offline
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Default Hmmm

Is there a more detailed walkthrough of this steering upgrade besides the one on cubfaq? The one there is pretty light on details.
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2010, 03:01 PM
squatch squatch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger View Post
Is there a more detailed walkthrough of this steering upgrade besides the one on cubfaq? The one there is pretty light on details.
Go to page 3 "steering upgrade courtesy of summit racing" thread
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:16 PM
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I finally got a bit more done tonight...my parts came in, so I've got all the gaskets and seals I need for the CI rear conversion. I replaced the really leaky grommet in the fuel tank, and I drained the oil. I got most of the tie rod ends replaced with heim joints...I failed to realize that the 3/8" ones on the tie rods can't have studs because they screw into the pivoting arm on the axle. I guess I'll have to put in another McMaster-Carr order. Tomorrow I'll put on the adjustable carb and refill the crankcase with Rotella, and perhaps drive it around a bit and wash the rear in preparation for disassembly.
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2010, 05:37 PM
diesel_nut diesel_nut is offline
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That Walbro carb is a major POS!

I had an 1872 and if it sat for more than 2 months there was water in the carb. Only one drop of water would keep it from flowing fuel. I bet in the 5-6 years I owned it I had that carb off 10 times. Even replaced it with a new one and the exact same problem cropped up immediately.

Sold it mainly because of that problem. Didn't want to ^%%@# with it!

Quite a work-horse though!
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2010, 10:52 PM
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I put on the adjustable carb, changed the oil, put in the inline shutoff, fixed the leaky grommet on the tank, put it all back together and...it no longer has spark It ran two weeks ago when my dad picked it up. It appears that the primary coil in the mag is open. My spare mag also has an open primary

I've FINALLY got the flywheel shroud off...man, what a PITA to remove without pulling the engine. And of course, now I see the muffler shield needs welding, the engine had 1 tight bolt holding it in, and there were no locknuts on the engine end of the driveshaft. Now I've got to order a mag before I can wash the rear and split this thing and start getting the CI rear together...
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  #20  
Old 05-18-2010, 11:08 PM
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Sounds like you have plenty to do to that thing! It's a good thing that it found a new home with someone that has the ability and willingness to refurbish it!
I did end up getting another Kohler carburetor for mine. I cleaned it and rebuilt it, and put it on yesterday. It runs and idles great!
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