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  #11  
Old 05-10-2016, 07:59 PM
JRoberts JRoberts is offline
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Trying to time lining marks up on fly wheel. First mark I come to looks like SP. Going CCW the next mark looks like something C. At that point is where my points begin to break. Are the points breaking at the wrong place or is that right? Not sure what the C stands for
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:21 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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One mark should read "S" and the other "T". It's possible that it is "SP" and "TC". Either way, points should just break on the "S" or "SP" mark. S/SP is for "spark". T/TC is for "Top center". Pretty self explanatory really....
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:24 PM
JRoberts JRoberts is offline
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That's what I thought but mine break at tc and not sp. Also when I check piston at the tc mark it is not tdc.
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  #14  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:29 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You have the head off?
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  #15  
Old 05-10-2016, 10:17 PM
JRoberts JRoberts is offline
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My bad, I meant valve. Either way that would mean not tdc. Got it running finally and adjusted carb. Runs but shakes really bad. Engine needs overhauled for sure but I figured it would still settle its self out by adjusting carb. The shaking from being out of time?
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  #16  
Old 05-10-2016, 11:46 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Valve should be shut at TDC unless it's on overlap.... plus, the ACR should be making the valve come open, so you can't judge by looking at the valve. Only the piston.

What makes you think it needs overhauled? If it hasn't run in 8 years, it's likely going to smoke a bit, and for a while until things settle back in....

Shaking from being out of time..... likely. Figure it out. Time it. Set the points to open on the "S" mark (or whatever your flywheel says). Only way it can be wrong is if the key is sheared on the crank for the flywheel.
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  #17  
Old 05-11-2016, 06:37 PM
JRoberts JRoberts is offline
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I justi was afraid key was sheared because the points are opening on the DC marks and not the SP. No way to rotate that much on the flywheel and points with out adjusting teeth on crank. Also have oil on top, blowing out one of the studs on top plus blowing out exhaust.
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  #18  
Old 05-11-2016, 06:43 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Needs a head gasket
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2016, 06:52 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRoberts View Post
I justi was afraid key was sheared because the points are opening on the DC marks and not the SP. No way to rotate that much on the flywheel and points with out adjusting teeth on crank. Also have oil on top, blowing out one of the studs on top plus blowing out exhaust.
The points opening on the DC may just be that you don't have it adjusted correctly. Doesn't mean the crank key is sheared.


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Originally Posted by Terry C View Post
Needs a head gasket
Agreed.


While you have the head off, you can see if the DC mark is in the right spot.
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2016, 08:41 PM
JRoberts JRoberts is offline
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Adjusted points again and shaking is almost gone. Adjusted them at .020 when the points opened to their widest point. Now they are starting to open pretty close to the SP on flywheel. Thanks for all the help! Now adjusting carb and rebuild engine.
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