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#11
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Like I said earlier Diesels heat up slower, you have to work them a bit to warm them up.
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Pat Benner Haskell OK Keep the Deck down and the Throttle open!!! |
#12
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Ok, a few more pieces are in place.
I picked up a new trans filter and that immediately did the trick. The drive engages at just the slightest stick movement and continues on up to speed. Reverse is working the same. I only have 1/2 hydraulics as of now though. The deck lift is working great, but the rear 3-point only whines and doesn't budge. I suppose a gel blockage could be responsible for the 3-point not moving. Should I continue to gently work the hydraulic lever in hopes that blockages will be exercised out, or is that a pipe dream? Are there any ports or cleanouts that need to be looked at on the valve control unit itself? Re: the PTO. Works great! I simply completed the seat switch circuit and it stays on just fine. That was a great tip. Re: Cooling system. More great tips from you all. I stopped being a nervous nellie and let the thing run awhile. I think the cooling system is working just fine. When it had run a few minutes the lower rad hose finally started to get warm. Thanks very much for all the helpful advice everyone. I must say, I was pretty stoked to take this bad boy on a tour of the property. It really drives nicely. Compared to my little Troybuilt grass cutter, this thing feels like a Caddy. Nice to have actual headlights too, instead of a couple of glorified flashlight bulbs. With a little work on the deck, I could be mowing with it this week. ![]() Odds -N- Ends to tie up: • Replace throttle cable (broken off at the dash control lever) • Find a new throttle knob (constantly falling off) • 3-point not moving • Permanently bypass the seat switch • Muffler • Do the glow plug mod Thanks again everyone. |
#13
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Did you clean out the inside of the transaxle and put in new fluid, or just change the filter?
If the deck goes up and down but the 3-point doesn't, the 3-point isn't connected. They both use the same cylinder. |
#14
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Were you actuating the other hydro lever? That actually belongs to your front ports for something such as hyd angle for a front blade.
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#15
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@ Matt G. The fluid is new. I'm treating this batch of fluid and filter as a sacrificial flush-out, because I will replace them again when I get time tonight or tomorrow to spend taking the rear cover off and cleaning house. I won't drive it around any more before I do that. I have to round up a gasket. Does anyone make their own by cutting out of a sheet of gasket material, or does NAPA have a cross-reference? My Cub dealer is not at all convenient to go to.
@ aagitch ![]() Wow guys, with that, the major initial hangups are smoothing out. I pulled the belt cover off the 50C deck, and like the tractor (only a bit worse) I think I rescued it from the field in the nick of time. It was damp and full of rust/soil. No rust-through, still feels good and solid. The spindles were really cranky though. I went ahead and shot some grease through them, but at least one or two may be gonners. I think I'm really going to enjoy this little monster. ![]() |
#16
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Something you might want to do with the deck is completely disassemble it and clean up/repaint the area under the belt cover. There is a thick stiffener that bolts to the skin, and there's no paint between the stiffener and the skin, so it gets very rusty. You can also beat both the skin and stiffener flat again (they're probably warped) and then clean and paint them to stop further rust. Here's what I'm talking about. After doing this, I found a couple of rust holes that had to be welded up. I didn't think to take an "after" picture
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#17
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Yep Matt, that's pretty much what mine looked like under the cover. Thanks for the heads up on the stiffener. I took a paint stir stick after the heavy junk, then I'll give it the ol' power wash tonight. I'll remove the spindles and anything else trapping moisture and paint it up with POR~15.
I'll really have to restrain myself to keep from diving into a full restoration. I like my equipment too look as good as it runs, but I've got to get that Sears Suburban completely done before starting yet another project. Plus, I'd just like to get to use it for awhile. |
#18
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One more thing I might add here.
If you have problems starting it, please DO NOT be tempted to use starting fluid on this motor. If you do, you can do some serious damage to the motor, like stretching head bolts, blowing head gaskets, or bending the rods. I looked at a 6.2L Chevy Diesel that had cracked the main bearing webs in the block from to much SF. Also this is a GlowPlug motor, you should never use staring fluid on ANY glowplug motor. You could ignite the fluid in the intake. Another thing I might add as well. The compression on that motor could be VERY high, I have seen Diesels run anywhere from 14:1 to 23.5:1, most common being around 15 to 17:1. So don't expect to turn it over easy by hand.
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Pat Benner Haskell OK Keep the Deck down and the Throttle open!!! |
#19
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I thought i would let you know i went to the local Cub/Kubota dealer and ordered the throttle cable and knob for my 882 today. Will be here in 3 days along with $250 of other parts. So FYI, they are still available unlike some other things like that top radiator hose. I would also love for you to continue your posts talking about the glow plug mod. I had mine out to compare to a new one at the dealer but they didnt have any instock so i didnt order them just yet. Gonna wait till i have it back together before i spend even more money. Let me know how yours turns out. Thanks Enjoy that beast. Its kind of hard getting used to smelling differant after mowing the yard with diesel and not a gas burner. But i LOVE it!!! ![]() ![]()
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David in NC Wanted to buy Category 0 attachments and 2000 rpm implements ![]() |
#20
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Anyway, I'll keep updating the 882 progress. You have any photos of your 882? ![]() @ Amigatec Nossir. As impatient as I can be, I won't even be tempted to shoot starting fluid down the hatch. It's not worth trying. Thanks very much for that warning ![]() |
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