K321 Smokestack

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by Texas Blues

Got to checking the cam end play this morning, .014 is a snug fit. I saw that spec was .005 to .010. Might explain the knocks it had.

Check that guys, I checked it again to be sure and with the crank out, (and just before pulling the crank) it is at .018.

On the cam shims, is there only supposed to be one shim used to maintain proper end play? (one on the side opposite the gear) And also is .018 getting too far out of range to where it is not recommended to try and shim it back to spec?

If its not to far gone could I remove the existing shim, remeasure, and install the proper thickness according to the new measurement?
I guess it can vary, but I didnt see a spec on the original shim. Thanks TB

[J-Mech]

No spec on the original shim. They used what was needed to make it in spec.
Yes, you can just shim it to bring it in spec. Doesn't matter whether you add shims, get thicker ones.... all the same. I've pulled them apart with the shims on the gear side, and with them on the other end. I don't think it really matters. You're not moving it that much. All blocks and cams are different. Nothing special about needing a bunch of shims. Some do, some don't.

[Texas Blues]

Wanted to give ya'll and update on this K321 rebuild. And thank twoton and jmech on advice and what to look out for.

First, I ordered and got the cam shims in, and practiced getting the endplay into spec (now disassembled, but wanted to make sure I could spec it out before I went further). Was able to get it close to .007, should be good.

Second, the governor was not missing any teeth, but it was wobbly on its axle shaft (more than just a little), so I ordered a kohler oem.

Third, I took my block to the machine shop to have it checked and gave him the spec sheet. He called and said to bring him a .020 over piston over and he will make the bore round again. I ordered the rebuild kit from the place twoton suggested including the valve set. Should have the kit in maybe by friday and take the piston to the machine shop.

One more question, I read where the crank bearings next to never go bad. Is this mostly true?

Like I mentioned earlier this is my first K series rebuild, and I appreciate all the advice given so far (there may be more needed later)
Thanks, TB

[J-Mech]

The governor gear isn't very tight on the shaft. Just how they are.... but replacing it won't hurt either.

No, the crank bearings are seldom bad. Clean them up and inspect them. After cleaning, lube them a bit and roll them. If you roll them dry, I promise you will think you "feel" something, but it's not likely anything. Look the race's over and see if you see any pitting or damage. They seldom need replaced unless the engine injested dirt, or or never had an oil change.

What about the crank? Did you get it ground?

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

The governor gear isn't very tight on the shaft. Just how they are.... but replacing it won't hurt either.

No, the crank bearings are seldom bad. Clean them up and inspect them. After cleaning, lube them a bit and roll them. If you roll them dry, I promise you will think you "feel" something, but it's not likely anything. Look the race's over and see if you see any pitting or damage. They seldom need replaced unless the engine injested dirt, or or never had an oil change.

What about the crank? Did you get it ground?

Thanks jmech. No I have not had the crank ground. I am taking the block and piston and crank in to the machine shop on Monday. The guy said he will check the crank and see what it needs. He may have to grind it, I don't know yet.

LOL sure enough, the crank bearing did "feel" like it had a stiff spot in it. But upon inspection and cleaning it looks and feels fine. Thanks, TB

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Texas Blues

Thanks jmech. No I have not had the crank ground. I am taking the block and piston and crank in to the machine shop on Monday. The guy said he will check the crank and see what it needs. He may have to grind it, I don't know yet.

LOL sure enough, the crank bearing did "feel" like it had a stiff spot in it. But upon inspection and cleaning it looks and feels fine. Thanks, TB

But if your crank needs ground, your screwed because you already ordered the kit and it will have a standard size rod in it. You will have to ship it back and order another rod. Should have checked ALL parts, then ordered the kit.

[OldSkull]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

But if your crank needs ground, your screwed because you already ordered the kit and it will have a standard size rod in it. You will have to ship it back and order another rod. Should have checked ALL parts, then ordered the kit.

G... I was worry he did that Oh well if he purchase his kit from the same EB guy we do he can contact him to exchange his connecting rod, of course he need to ship the rod first and pay the extra shipping charge.

PS: Grinding the rod and fit rod bearing is another possibility but this demand lot of machining and I know "squad" if this have been done on a K-series before.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by OldSkull

PS: Grinding the rod and fit rod bearing is another possibility but this demand lot of machining and I know "squad" if this have been done on a K-series before.

Oh yes. That is an option. But it costs less to exchange the rod. A new rod is about the same price (or less) as having an old one machined and a bearing installed. So.... I just replace the rod. If I was building a puller, then yeah. But if your building a puller, you'd likely not be using the stock rod anyway.... so, there you go.

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

But if your crank needs ground, your screwed because you already ordered the kit and it will have a standard size rod in it. You will have to ship it back and order another rod. Should have checked ALL parts, then ordered the kit.

Thanks for your concern guys. I did check the crank, and measured it with my mic, and it showed to be in spec for a standard rod (I guess I could have mentioned that and should have it seems). I ordered the kit based on my measurement. I didn't think the crank needed to be ground, possibly polished, but it looks pretty good. When he looks at it he may tell me different, and if so, I will get a different rod. No biggie. It was going to be checked by the shop one way or the other before assembly.

But yea, I should have had the guy back up measurements first as I am not a pro machinist. Thanks, TB

[twoton]

Glad to hear you're gaining on it there TB.