Sherwin Williams Acrylic Enamel Cub 125 Colors

[Alvy]

Jon what ratio did you mix it?

[tbone]

Tim, thanks for the link to the 3M respirators. I will order one.

A friend purchased the Sherwin Williams paint for me. If I didn't already have the Sherwin Williams paint I would purchase the Irongard as recommended by DeltaCub. However, I have read a number of positive reviews regarding Sherwin Williams automotive paints. My concern is the color match of the Sherwin Williams paint, particularly, the white. I may end up buying some Irongard in the IH White.

[olds45512]

I recommend it because it's easy for beginners s to spray and the price is right, sure there's better paints out the but the iron gard is about $60 bucks a gallon and the better stuff is $200 and up per gallon. My paint hasn't faded and still looks just as good as the day I sprayed it.

[tbone]

Tim, I like your comment about Irongard that "it is easy for beginners to spray". Will I be getting in over my head if I use the Sherwin Williams automotive paint? Will the Irongard be more compatible with the rattle can Rust-Oleum primer I now have on all my parts?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by olds45512

I recommend it because it's easy for beginners s to spray and the price is right, sure there's better paints out the but the iron gard is about $60 bucks a gallon and the better stuff is $200 and up per gallon. My paint hasn't faded and still looks just as good as the day I sprayed it.

Fair enough.

Well of coarse yours looks as good as the day you painted it. It takes years for it to fade. Remember, all these machines were once painted with Ironguard, and you know what they look like if they have never been painted. Even ones that were kept inside all their life are faded some.


Some farmers I worked for right out of high school painted their own equipment. They had this beautifully painted 1086. They also had this nasty ratty old looking M. One day I asked when they were going to paint the M. Jeff said, "I did. Same year I painted the 1086." I was like, "WHAT?" He said, "Yeah. I painted the 1086 with Centarri, and painted the M with Ironguard from IH. Same gun, same hardener, same everything just different paint. Painted one then the other. Neither has sat out any more than the other, and they were painted about 15 years ago. Matter fact," he said, "The 1086 has probably sat out more, because we only use the M to move wagons and run augers in the fall." I was convinced. It looked like he had just painted the 1086 recently. It still shined! When I started painting, I always shot DuPont paints (not "always" but you know what I mean). Never disappointed. Even when they (DuPont) came out with Nason, I was reluctant to switch to the "cheaper" line. Was never let down with it either.

It doesn't matter to me what you guys use, I just wondered why everyone was so hooked on Ironguard. I still don't like it.


Oh, Alvy, it was in a rattle can. Which may been part of the issue. Paint in rattle cans never seems to spray like the same paint ran through a gun does. I don't know if it's mixed thick, or thin, or not at all..... but I don't ever get "satisfactory" results from a rattle can. Others do, but I don't. I usually end up with runs, or sags, or too thick, too thin..... but when you get used to using a gun that you can change the spray pattern to suite what you are painting you get spoiled I guess. Never easy to paint a small part, or in "crevices" when a fan spray pattern is what they gave you, and a round pattern is what you need.

Sorry for the long post.

[tbone]

Thanks for all the great comments. I can tell you that after I paint and reassemble my Cub 125 it is going to spend most of its time in the garage with my Cub 1200. I just like IH Cubs and if I had a barn instead of a garage I would have a Farmall M. I actually do all my lawn mowing with a zero turn. This spray painting has me buffaloed right now because I have never done it before. I don't have a clue as to which paint I should be using. I have the Sherwin Williams paint so that is the paint I planned to use: however, if you have to be an experienced painter to use it correctly than I probably need to look at a different type of paint. Any guidance/advice you can give this old guy will be appreciated.

[zippy1]

Well being a "beginner" with the HVLP painting, I was very satisfied with the Ironguard paint. As was noted, went on easy, and mine was dry to the touch in less than a half hour. And the shine was exceptional.
BUT my tractor sits in the living room, so likely it won't be fading.
As for the rattle can painting, which I will never do again seeing how easy painting actually is with a HLVP gun, and the Ironguard paint.
But my 100 I did five years ago or so with the Cub Cadet rattle cans still looks good, and that paint dried so fast you had a hard time getting the next coat on while it was still tacky. So I ended up doing less pieces at one time...
To the OP, you'll be fine painting over the Rustoleum primer. If you have concerns, just try it out on a couple smaller pieces and survey the situation and see what it looks like and go from there...

[jaynjeep]

The Sherwin Williams paint should spray just fine as long as you mix it and thin it properly... Use a hardener for quicker dry time and better longevity..
Get a large flat area and practice before you start on the tractor..

My dad used to spray a lot of enamel... his trick was on the last coat spray a half and half mixture of thinner with paint... that would help the final coat really lay out flat and make it shine..

I do like the more modern urethane paint for it's better durability and hardness but it is expensive and not as easy to spray for a beginner...

I would say the Irongard or an enamel like you have may be better for a first time spray project..

Don't be scared of it... practice makes perfect!!

Good luck!! I admire you for wanting to learn!

[bocephus1991]

Prep is the biggest thing with paint. Smooth clean, oil and rust free surface. I just shot my 1211 (making it red) with iron gaurd 2150 and I'm not a fan of it. I rattle canned a GM fridge with IH red van sickle that looks better. Well the bad part was the hood. I don't like cases thinner. I wet sanded the hood am gonna take it to my work and repaint the hood. I ever paint another I'm using nason full cryll. The caseih 2150 just doesn't pop lik I think it should. Heck that van sickle on my 1200 looks better! I think part of it was I may have not had it thin enough and the tip on my small hvlp gun was to small at 1.0 but I've used a tip that small with the nason full cryll with no problems. So who knows.

[olds45512]

when i use the iron gard paint i mix it 8 parts paint, 1 part hardener and 1/2 part reducer, any more reducer than that and its just to thin and sprays like sh!t. i use a gun with a 1.3 tip, any bigger than that is just asking for trouble. you could use a 1.4 tip but be prepared to paint like you a$$ is on fire to avoid getting runs, to much reducer will also lead to runs.