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#11
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Get a quote before you let a shop do the work. Our shop does basically nothing for the general public. It would be $75 min. An old school shop, retiree with a mill in his garage, possibly even an automotive machine shop would be who I would look for. Even a GOOD maintenance man at a factory--probably has acess to a milling machine.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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#12
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I prefer to mill a new keyway 90* from old one, not *180.
---------Done a few over the years. Or, you could mill a wider keyway in the old location, and make a step key, if it is not wallowed too bad.
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#13
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Quote:
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
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#14
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Quote:
Bill |
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#15
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Yes I have done about 4 keyway repairs to date. I weld up the wallowed out area very carefully with a mig welder and then take the crank and a 12 pack of beer to the machine shop dept. Couple days later I have a very nice reworkrd crankshaft.
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1641, 1541, 682 with 18hp command engine and hydraulics from a 782. 1872 with a power angle blade. |
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#16
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You have less of a chance of any problems @ *90.
if another keyway is cut @ 180 then you have a chance of problems later on. In an industrial situation, we had to look @ all angles so to speak,as our machines/equipment ran 27-7, 365. Downtime ran in the thousands of dollars a minute. anytime you can prevent a problem or plan downtime, it was a plus. A shaft cut @ *90 will not tend to become undersize/wallow like it will @ *180 Just like setscrews, they are set @*90.
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#17
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Running those machines 27-7 is hard on them
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
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#18
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Quote:
Jeff |
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#19
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Jeff in PA - I'm trying to get my students to get it tore down before Christmas break so that I can get it checked and order an overhaul kit so it will be here before school resumes in January. I'll be able to get a picture of the keyway this afternoon but probably won't have the crank completely out till the end of the week to know if it needs to be ground as well.
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#20
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Finally got some picture of the shaft. It was a real pain to get the clutch basket off because the key was deformed and wouldn't allow it to slide. It was about every time you started it that you had to put the starter belt on because the clutch basket wouldn't stay tight without wobbling.
I noticed that the set screw had worn the side of the shaft at 90 degrees cw. Would it probably be best to get the new keyway cut at 90 ccw from the old? And I know where the vbelt runs on the basket has some issues with being pinched in, would it be a good idea to just get a new one of them too? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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