1872 front PTO wires burned/melted

[R Bedell]

The PTO Switch.........

Disregard terminal "E". It is internal and has NO bearing on the functionality of the CCC use.

The ONLY thing you have to focus in on and be concerned about, is the right color of wire(s) goes to the right terminal, whether it is a single or double wire.

A = Brown
B = Black
C = Red (input from Ign Sw)
D = Red (output to Brake Sw)
F = White

[R Bedell]

Fuses and Lights.........


The OEM Wiring Diagram does depict two fuses. (A) The Main Fuse (20A), and (B) the Lighting Fuse.

This is another one of those CCC gray areas. The lighting fuse does NOT show up in the CC Parts Diagrams, at least I couldn't find it. It would imagine that it is a "inline" type, rated at 10A.

IF...the tractor does not have a Lighting Fuse, you can simply install one (Inline or Dash mount) between the "L" terminal on the Ignition Switch and the Lighting Circuit (Blue Wires). A 10A fuse is more than enough to handle the lights.

[Steve N Mi]

Thanks for explaining these items, it helps.

Yesterday was a relatively warm day and my plan was to complete wiring the ign. sw. - things didn't go as planned. No real progress on my part and now I am sick so I'm not sure when I might get back to this project.

I did take a couple of photos the other day and will post them for comment.

The first is the plug I had difficulty prying off the switch. Out of focus but still shows all kinds of crud in the slots. The switch spades were very rusty, it's no wonder I didn't get it to start with these bad connections.

[Steve N Mi]

Is this the reverse relay in the picture above the power steering mount? I figure it is but to be sure I'm asking the expert.

[Steve N Mi]

I have an in-line fuse for the lighting ckt.. Tried to find one with blue wire but red, black, white and the yellow wired one I bought were the choices. Blue tape or blue shrink tubing might be options. I've got some Royal Blue paint in a rattle can, lol.

Sta Kons, switch etc. at the ready as soon as I feel well enough to brave the cold.

[R Bedell]

The plug for the end of the Ignition Switch is absolute TOAST. When you cut back from that, "Make Sure" you get into "clean and bright" copper wire.

YES...that is the Reverse Relay.

BTW...The correct Ignition Switch is 925-3026

[Steve N Mi]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

The plug for the end of the Ignition Switch is absolute TOAST. When you cut back from that, "Make Sure" you get into "clean and bright" copper wire.

YES...that is the Reverse Relay.

BTW...The correct Ignition Switch is 925-3026

Yes, clean & bright copper.
The switch I have 31 2941 test the same with VOM as the print indicates.
I was hoping the numbers would cross reference but maybe not.

btw, if you'd make room in your private message box I would try sending my message again.

[R Bedell]

Better yet, send messages to: onlycubcadets@yahoo.com

[Steve N Mi]

After an extended illness, I'm back. I spent some time working on the 1872 Monday and again today. The fuse for the lighting is now dash mounted - really a difficult install in such cramped quarters. I wonder if that has anything to do with the dash mounting not attempted in the factory.

Also completed the ignition switch install but by the time I got this done it was too late to test. I'll probably use a temporary gas tank to test things before putting the OEM fuel tank back in place.

There are 2 more areas in the electrical on this tractor that need to be addressed before I can declare it ready for work. The wires to the front PTO are fried and there is a wad of engine wire splices by the starter that I would like to sort out and make neater.

[Steve N Mi]

Saturday evening I put Super #2 back together with fuel tank, PTO, and engine wiring repaired. After a very long time it is running again! Thanks Roland for your help.