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Reload this Page Cub Cadet 124 - Speed Surging While Moving
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  #11  
Old 05-13-2017, 09:10 AM
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ambrola ambrola is offline
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Would the Governor cause this?
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2017, 01:16 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
OOPS! my bad. So my next guess is hydro linkage?

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  #13  
Old 05-13-2017, 10:17 PM
Bobbar Bobbar is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
I wonder if the engine is getting wore out and lacks the compression to hold the tractor back. How does the engine run? Does it smoke?
It's engine #2 for this tractor, but no idea what year it was put it. It is the most recent revision of the K-301. (Spark plug right over the ex. valve)

It runs really good, much better than it looks.

It has a brand new Kohler/Carter type carb. Points are only a couple years old. Same with the coil, plug wire and condenser. Timing is spot on. The breather was rebuilt around 2 years ago too. The only smoke it makes is a light amount from the breather after a long hard session mowing the yard while chewing on the 48" deck. It's definitely not flawless, but it hums along pleasantly all day.
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2017, 10:23 PM
Bobbar Bobbar is offline
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Originally Posted by ambrola View Post
Would the Governor cause this?
The engine speed is rock solid. I done did my time with adjusting the governor and springs to solve any hunting issues.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2017, 10:45 PM
Bobbar Bobbar is offline
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Default Roll Pin/Drive Shaft Inspection
I took a closer look today and here's what I saw at the driveshaft - reduction gear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q5CjhtAKuU

That doesn't look wonderful to me.

Do you think it's just a worn pin? Or is it possible that the hole in the shaft is worn enough to cause that kind of slop?

Also, the movement on the input gear collar thing seems a little excessive too.

There's quite a mat of debris on top of the gearbox. I definitely need to clean that off.

Thanks again for all the input!
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  #16  
Old 05-13-2017, 11:46 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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There's your issue.
No way to know what's wore till you take it apart. But I'd do it sooner than later....
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2017, 09:19 PM
Bobbar Bobbar is offline
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Default Drive Pin Replacement
I had a chance to work on the old Cub over the long weekend and had a good bit of success.

My original plan was to replace the drive shaft coupler and pins with a parallel coupler and bolts from Brian Miller at Garden Tractor Pulling Tips. But I haven't been able to get in contact with him and I was getting froggy.

I purchased a 1/4" roll pin punch from Amazon. Item #: B0012WLDFQ

On Monday I scooped off all the coagulated clippings and saturated the pins with Aero Kroil. After a mere 15 minutes of banging I was able to remove these.

Pretty well broken, bent and dickered all to hell.

I replaced them with Grade 8 1/4" partially threaded bolts and nylon lock nuts. The slop was definitely noticeably better, but not perfect. There's still some wear on the drive shaft, but I still feel much better knowing that I'm not on the verge of shearing a drive pin mid-plowing session.

It's not as nicely balanced without Brian Miller's coupler, but I intend to follow-up with that later.

Tips:
  • Get a proper roll pin punch! The one I purchased was a little shorter than I would have liked, but it was able to knock the pins out onto the floor while staying juuuust above the creeper drive slot.
  • The most frustrating problem I had was stabilizing the coupler and shaft to keep it from rotating while I hammered on the pins. Jamming it in gear wasn't enough, because of the existing slop. I clamped a large set of vice-grips around the coupler and let them hang down. This helped a lot with keeping the top of the pins in position.
  • Aero Kroil? I didn't even soak over-night...
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2017, 09:26 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Take the bolts back out and replace them with the proper pins, bolts in a driveshaft is a no no. And stop using tips from Brian Miller
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2017, 09:43 PM
Bobbar Bobbar is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Take the bolts back out and replace them with the proper pins, bolts in a driveshaft is a no no. And stop using tips from Brian Miller
Opinions about Brian Miller aside, why not bolts? Because it eliminates a sacrificial part?
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2017, 10:02 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Opinions about Brian Miller aside, why not bolts? Because it eliminates a sacrificial part?
Using bolts will chew up the driveshaft and the input shaft, driveshaft is no big deal but the input shaft will be an issue. New pin's from Cub are about $3 each and will be tighter and take up more slop than bolt's.
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