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  #11  
Old 08-11-2017, 08:54 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
The bearing goes back on flush with the end of the shaft. Turn the locking mechanism opposite direction that was used to remove it Lock it with the allen screw. That bearing is not too expensive and I would replace it while you have it apart. May keep you from taking it back off later. I used a short piece of 2x4 and would rotate the engine a quarter turn after hitting the wood a few times. Be sure the spark plug is removed for safety and to make the engine turn more easily. Let us know how you do and have a great day.
Bob
I gotta figure out this locking mechanism. Do I just loosen the allen wrench fitting on it? How can the locking mechanism be removed if the bearing is still on the shaft? Urge to scream...stress pill time.
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:32 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
I gotta figure out this locking mechanism. Do I just loosen the allen wrench fitting on it? How can the locking mechanism be removed if the bearing is still on the shaft? Urge to scream...stress pill time.
Loosen and remove the set screw(s) on the locking collar. IF it was put on in the same direction as the factory, opposite of running rotation will loosen it.

The locking collar is two separate pieces. The part on the shaft has the bore perfectly centered while the outside was machines off center. The other piece is also machined off center. Once the bearing is put into the correct position, the collar is driven tight with a punch to keep the bearing located in the proper spot.

To remove the bearing, the collar should be turned about 1/8 of a turn so it is loose. It can be installed either way so I can't tell you which way yours was installed ( sorry )
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:53 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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So loosen the set screw first and then use a punch to rotate it in a clockwise direction? I'll try that tomorrow and see how it goes. Must I have a puller to then remove the bearing?

I notice the 'key' moves back and forth. Must this be in a certain position when everything goes back together? I know the one set screw has to go against the key. I'm also worried about how far the PTO goes back on. Do those set screws rest right on the bearing or behind it? I know this is getting ahead of where I'm at right now but I'm already worried about screwing something up.

What does this collar have to do with the bearing anyway? Is the collar mostly just to lock the pulley in place so it can't start moving off the shaft?
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  #14  
Old 08-12-2017, 06:25 AM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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The collar is what keeps the bearing locked in the correct place on the crankshaft.the off- center machining of the two surfaces pinches it into place. You don't have to destroy anything to get these to move, a few good taps with a punch will loosen it. If you can't get it to loosen in one direction, try the opposite way. It will come off. Once the collar is loose, just slide the bearing off the crankshaft.
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:36 AM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Got the locking collar loosened. I believe I punched counter clockwise. It rotates freely about 1/8 turn - as is supposed to if I'm correct. So now I have to get the bearing off. Any way to do that without some special puller?
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2017, 08:44 AM
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IIRC there is a small gap between the bearing and the front of the basket pulley hub. Have you tried to move the basket pulley forward at all? All you need is just a little room to install the new bolt. Be careful as to not bend the pulley but it doesn't have to go far to get the bolt in. The best way to remove bearings and pulleys is to get them moving with pressure closest to the inside where the race meets the shaft which is difficult here with out a puller sometimes
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2017, 09:54 AM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Wasn't enough room for the bolt without taking the bearing off. I did manage to remove it. What puzzles me, though - as my dealer told me anyway - is that the replacement bearing has some sort of spring-clip that locks it to the correct spot on the shaft. I don't see anything on the shaft that would appear to allow for that. Guess I'll find out when I get a new bearing. Unfortunately he doesn't have any right now. Said he has a used one in very good condition. Mine actually doesn't look that bad - especially being original!
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2017, 10:22 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Here is the bearing you need. It can be had at:
* Your local Cub Cadet Dealer
* Your Local Case/IH Dealer
* The sponsors listed at the top of the page
* Numerous online parts sources
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File Type: jpg IH-60071-C92 PTO Bearing.jpg (19.8 KB, 78 views)
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2017, 10:37 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The bearing goes flush with then end of the crankshaft and is held in place by the locking collar and set screw The then PTO goes on and the inner snap ring sets the correct depth for that, it is secured in place BEHIND the locking collar w/the 3 pointed set screws.

This whole procedure is in the manuals, nothing mysterious about it.
Down load, print and read it. A wealth of info in them.
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  #20  
Old 08-12-2017, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
Wasn't enough room for the bolt without taking the bearing off. I did manage to remove it. What puzzles me, though - as my dealer told me anyway - is that the replacement bearing has some sort of spring-clip that locks it to the correct spot on the shaft. I don't see anything on the shaft that would appear to allow for that. Guess I'll find out when I get a new bearing. Unfortunately he doesn't have any right now. Said he has a used one in very good condition. Mine actually doesn't look that bad - especially being original!
Does this help?
The locking collar secures the bearing to the crankshaft, the set screws keep the pto from coming off the bearing.
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File Type: jpg Mech_PTO-_B.jpg (28.8 KB, 73 views)
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