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#11
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One of the members on Cub Cadet Cyclops on FB is using a primer bulb to get gas up to the carb after the tractor has been sitting. I'm going to buy a couple and see how it works on the engines that I don't use very often.
https://www.amazon.com/Primer-Rubber...12152270&psc=1
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#12
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One of my 1864s is doing the same thing: Excess cranking required to start after an extended non-use period. One day break = no problem. One week break = excess cranking required.
I'm suspecting it is a needle and seat problem that allows the fuel to syphon back towards the tank. Maybe the fuel pump is supposed to stop the fuel from syphoning back. IDK. I haven't taken the time to look into it. If replacing the fuel pump fixes the problem, please let us know. PeterJ
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1863 48" deck, 3pt 1864 x 2, 54" deck, power bagger, 48” deck 1811 44" deck 1210 44"deck IH trip plow QA42-A, 451 x 2, 551 42" Earthcavator Driveway Drag ![]() USAF Shepherd's Chapel |
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#13
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I'm wondering if it could be the electric fuel shut off valve in the carb. I had one a month ago that I had to remove and clean to get it to move. Both the valve and the passage that it moved in was corroded. The CH20 in my 782 took forever to start the other day after it had sat for two months. It would be interesting to know how the engines start that have had that valve removed.
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Richard 1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point |
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#14
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I have this problem on a number of Cubs with both the Command and the Vanguard engines. Some start right away after sitting for a week or so. Some seem to take a long time to light off.
Is it the fuel pump? Don't know. I've changed fuel pumps and didn't fix the problem. Is it heat boiling the fuel dry after shut off? Don't know but I've tried using a check valve in the fuel line to prevent the carb from gravity flowing back to the tank. Didn't work. I suspect the ones that are hard to start after sitting are running hotter than they should and are evaporating the fuel out of the carb when shut down. |
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#15
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I bought two of the rebuild kits for the metal fuel pumps from i save tractors.com. they were $9.99 each.
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#16
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Quote:
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#17
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Quote:
If the engines don't fire off right away, that means the fuel bowl is empty at first crank. |
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#18
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Quote:
I thought what a great idea Sam, I need to buy a couple of the primer bulbs. After finding some 8mm units for $2.87 each, Like this one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Hand-Pu....c100005.m1851 I remembered to check for compatibility with ethanol and came across a product review with photos (listed on one site actually selling the bulbs) one showing bulb rubber badly cracked and another showing the damage done by leaking fuel from the cracked bulb. The claim made was that the bulb was used twice when new and after sitting one year the damage was noticed and the bulb no longer functioned. THEN, I remembered that years ago, maybe 10 or 12 I bought one similar at Harbor Freight to pump/siphon fuel from a drum- it failed like described above. I still think it's a great idea, wish I could be sure about the quality of the rubber used in the bulb without actually testing it long term. |
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#19
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Those primer bulbs are common in fuel lines for portable marine outboard motor fuel tanks. I'm sure if you bought a quality bulb it would give you quite a few years of service. BTDT
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#20
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Take the gas cap off and give the tank a blow job.
Don't laugh, it works.
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