Snowplow setup

[bllwnkl]

Thanks J-Mech.
When looking at DIY ways to add liquid ballast to a tire you don't get that explanation. Most just try to get as much liquid in as possible. I thought that maybe that's what you meant, but wanted to know why. This is why this forum is so valuable. Many of you know these things, some of us don't.
I would have tried to fill the tire a full as I could to get as much weight as possible. This is why I ask questions. Please don't look at us as dummies for asking. I appreciate you taking the time to provide the pic and explanation. I learned something today!

[john hall]

OK, it seems weight is the key, just not too much. I'll fill the rears and go from there. I must have the back tires pumped way too tight, it will spin at nothing--literally just driving on grassy hills. If the liquid doesn't do the job I'll add a suitcase weight on the rear to see how it does.

So how do you guys set the wear shoes? Just enough to leave the blade about 1/4" above concrete for snow removal? What about working dirt and gravel, raise them way up?

[J-Mech]

Here's what I have found:
I used the same blade for years and years clearing my concrete drive, and gravel parking, then moved up to doing one or two parking lots. I removed the shoes totally. With them on and holding the blade up, you can't get under the snow, and it just rides on top. With it down on the ground, you usually can. It took years to wear out a cutting edge. When it finally did, I was clearing, like 4 parking lots, and I don't know how many drives and sidewalks. I flipped it, and decided to put the shoes back on and set them to just rub. It adds surface area to wear on, and slowed down the wear. I finally wore out the shoes and the edge, and I made my own shoes when Idid. They last longer now, lol. Point is, guys think they save concrete. Truth be told, those scuff marks are gone by June/July. They don't bother me anyway. You can get under the snow, and do a good job clearing. On gravel.... it doesn't matter. Even if the rock is froze, they still dig. (Granted, not as bad.) So..... when doing dirt or gravel work, take them off. When clearing snow.... your choice. Now that I don't clear parking lots, I just leave them off.

[bllwnkl]

My driveway is gravel. I made these shoes out of solid cast iron and use them so I don't scrape up so much gravel with the blade. It puts lines in the gravel but it will get taken care of later.

[Billy-O]

For snow plowing on gravel driveway, I don't rely on the shoes as much as I set the depth stop on the lift handle. I prefer to keep the blade (and the shoes) just off the driveway as to not churn up the stones and plow it off the edge off the driveway. Lot less raking gravel back onto driveway come spring time.

[x.bhamcb]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I doubt it. You don't say what size of tire, but the 23X10.50-12'S only hold about 5 gal. If you filled them completely full, you might get 7 in each, which would get you almost 100#, but when using liquid ballast, the valve stem should be exposed to air when in the 12 o'clock position.

My Tires are 24x12-12. The RimGuard fill chart (75% fill) says 8 gallons per tire for 24x12-12 (7 gal per tire for 23x10.5-12). I don't remember if I put 7 or 8 gallons per tire, but at 8.3lb/gal (density of water) either way it would be over 100 lbs, and yes my valve stems bleed air at 12 o'clock.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb

My Tires are 24x12-12. The RimGuard fill chart (75% fill) says 8 gallons per tire for 24x12-12 (7 gal per tire for 23x10.5-12). I don't remember if I put 7 or 8 gallons per tire, but at 8.3lb/gal (density of water) either way it would be over 100 lbs, and yes my valve stems bleed air at 12 o'clock.

A 24X12-12 tire isn't a size that the tractor came with, so I never would have guessed that size.
Yes, that would be over 100#.
With CaCl2, each of my rear wheels (tire/rim/ballast) weigh in right at 100# each. Like 98# IIRC. 23X10.50-12 Carlisle Super Lug tires, 75% fill. That's why I like CaCl2. Lots more weight.

[john hall]

Well I got around to adding some weight. Put 2 80 lb suitcase weights on the back. Sat them right on the drawbar, pushed up against the back of the lawnmower. There is about a 5/8 hole in each fender, bolted a pice of angle iron thru that hole and ran a threaded rod tight against the weights, these suckers ain't going anywhere. Had just enough room to bolt a small clevis to the drawbar--think its off a horse drawn plow or something, its highly corroded and cast. I found it in a field one day. Also put 3-4 gallons of antifreeze/water in each rear tire. So with over 200lbs of additional weight, I decided to see if this thing was worth keeping. WOW does it handle way better. It really doesn't stop at all. Mud everywhere (it rained AGAIN this morning). I did some pushing in grass, in mud, moved some gravel back up hill that washed with all the rains, this sucker was impressive. So I decided to get really crazy and try to drain a stump hole that's been full of water all summer. Well, I found its limits---thank God for teenagers and 4 wheelers just a phone call away!

[Billy-O]

That's interesting to see what additional weight can do for traction. It's almost like saying the higher up you go, the harder you fall. So the additional weights helps but of you get stuck, you'll likely need more help getting unstuck.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

That's interesting to see what additional weight can do for traction. It's almost like saying the higher up you go, the harder you fall. So the additional weights helps but of you get stuck, you'll likely need more help getting unstuck.

I probably could have gotten out of that hole, but there was a sapling/bush in front of me so I could not change my angle of attack. Obviously I was where I should have never been, but when you want to know a machines limitations, you got to push it a bit sometimes. No harm done other than getting muddy.