Brinley Plow - Page 2

ACecil · #11 08-24-2010, 04:45 PM

MH, after seeing the pics of your nice plow. I'm ready to get mine, and do some plowing!

Mountain Heritage · #12 08-24-2010, 04:54 PM

Thanks Allen....I can't wait to get mine hooked up and start turning some soil with it! :biggrin2.gif:

Mountain Heritage · #13 08-24-2010, 07:04 PM

So I did some more

before supper tonight on my sleeve hitch. I need some input here from the guys who have made their own as well as guys who run their tractors all the time with the gear box attached while using the sleeve hitch.
At what point does the hitch get "too big"? I was looking and if I leave the gearbox attached with the trailer hitch I am looking at making the bottom U shaped piece for the sleeve hitch about 15" or so. That seems to be large in a way to me? Do people normally take the trailer hitch off to shorten the hitch up by an inch or two? It just seems that if I make it around 15" it leaves the top bar stick out REALLY far and I am worried it will be too much and bend easily? I know in a another thread a member measured their top bar for me (which was great!), but if I make the hitch so I leave the gearbox attached - that measurement gets thrown out the window. He didn't have a gear box on his tractor. I am planning on making the bottom piece out of 3/8" x 2" flat steel and the verticle straps likely out of 1/4" or 3/16" x 2" flat steel. It doesn't need to be as thick in my opinion and from what I have seen others have used thinner material as well. I am thinking of bending the corners on it and welding a brace of some sort in to help support the pin as well as the tab that the verticle straps attach to.

I am kinda leaning towards removal of the trainler hitch when the time comes, I think it will look better too and less things for trash to get hung up on? Anyone have issues with the trash collecting on the gearbox or anything like that?

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The two bolts that are used to limit the amount of travel side to side.....who uses them and just how effective are they when using a plow? I could see if I had a cultivator on and was working between rows in a garden they would be very handy so I didn't wipe out half the row when I reached for my beer and the I was distracted for a second.

Matt G. · #14 08-24-2010, 07:55 PM

You aren't supposed to have the trailer hitch plate on when you do that. And yes, that gearbox is going to collect trash. This is why my tiller tractor and plow tractor were not the same tractor.

Mountain Heritage · #15 08-24-2010, 10:09 PM

Well that sucks, cause I only have the one tractor. So I need to remove the trailer hitch to use the tiller (which that I understood). But now I need to remove it all to use my plow if I don't want to collect trash with the gearbox. THIS SUCKS!!! Now how the heck am I going to convince the wife I need another tractor to use both implements! I am just not keen on unbolting the rear cover plate each time I need to change things around.

Matt G. · #16 08-24-2010, 10:48 PM

I'm not sure that matters too much because the sleeve hitch adapters tend to collect trash, too. You might be a bit better off because it's a super and you have more ground clearance as a result. If you're plowing a field full of trash, take the coulter off the plow so you don't wind up with a giant trash ball under the beam of the plow. You'll have to stop and clean it out once in awhile, but it's not the end of the world.

I don't know what type of ground you plan on plowing, but if it's just gardens and stuff, you probably won't have much of an issue. Bean fields will sometimes give you problems, depending on how well everything was picked up. Cornfields tend to be a mess.

T-Mo · #17 08-25-2010, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Heritage

The two bolts that are used to limit the amount of travel side to side.....who uses them and just how effective are they when using a plow? I could see if I had a cultivator on and was working between rows in a garden they would be very handy so I didn't wipe out half the row when I reached for my beer and the I was distracted for a second.

Per the Brinly manual, you're to removed the stabilizer bolts from the sleeve hitch so the plow can be free to move from side to side on the hitch. I'm sure Matt and the others who actually have a plow (and used it) can confirmed this or rebuke it.

Also, bending the corners of the hitch adapter, as you plan to do, is probably better. Especially since all this talk about "trash", though I'm sure the hitch will still pick some up but rounded corners may be less prone to "find" the trash.

On a side note, could you send me those dimensions that you received for the top rod? Thanks.

Matt G. · #18 08-25-2010, 09:59 AM

Some people put bolts in there and tighten them so the plow can't move, and others (like myself) don't put bolts in and let the plow move around. If you put bolts in, you'll never get the plow perfectly aligned, and you'll always be fighting it, particularly if your furrows aren't straight. I also think it's far less likely that the sleeve hitch adapter will be bent if the plow is allowed to move around.

cadetfarmer · #19 08-25-2010, 05:57 PM

Mountain Heritage;

If you have a 10" plow then you will have a 10" furrow. So any tire wider than
10" will not go down into the furrow.

Personally I use a 8" plow, and 6-12 AgLug tires on my 100. I sometimes get some slippage without weights, but I prefer that to broken axles.

The size plow any tractor can pull is directly related to how heavy the ground is.
Here in Mo. where I live, I have rocks with a smattering of verrryyy heavy clay.

Just my slant on the subject, and hey my advice is worth just as much as you paid for it.

CadetFarmer

Mountain Heritage · #20 08-26-2010, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadetfarmer

Mountain Heritage;

If you have a 10" plow then you will have a 10" furrow. So any tire wider than
10" will not go down into the furrow.

Personally I use a 8" plow, and 6-12 AgLug tires on my 100. I sometimes get some slippage without weights, but I prefer that to broken axles.

The size plow any tractor can pull is directly related to how heavy the ground is.
Here in Mo. where I live, I have rocks with a smattering of verrryyy heavy clay.

Just my slant on the subject, and hey my advice is worth just as much as you paid for it.

CadetFarmer

CadetFarmer....
Your advice as well as everyone else's here is worth LOTS!! I appreciate everyones input on the MANY questions I ask. It doesn't mean I agree with them all, but I do entertain everyones thoughts as another perspective on the subject. I am FAR from a professional on things that's for sure.

I was fortunate to get a 12" plow finally after looking for a long time. So if you look at it from a stand point of comparing the furrow you cut and the width of your tire - I should be ok. However, we all konw that you don't cut a full 12" furrow all the time, but its close. The more I think about it I should be ok with not running on the previous ground that was rolled over.... after all, its not like I am in a plowing competition with the Big Boys! Its a garden Mike!!

I agree with you on the idea of rather having a tractor spin than twisting off an axle. I for sure am fortunate in the ground around here isn't quite that bad. We do have nice blue clay in spots, but I won't even attempt to plow that stuff! Where I live now is very nice sandy/loam soil with the odd rock the size of the palm of your hand, which is nothing. I could drive about 2 miles down the road and find more rock then I would ever want to see in my life at my Uncle's farm, but that won't be happening! The biggest thing I want to accomplish is to be able to go out to the garage, hitch the plow on and slap on some ag tires (if I decide to go that route) and head off to plow. I don't want to spend half a day just trying to strike out the land because I am sitting there spinning wheels because I don't have enough power/traction/etc.. to pull the plow. I really can't see my 982 lacking the power to pull it. Like others have mentioned, the lighter soil might make it that I can get away with just the turf tires - they may very well be correct! On the other hand.....I think it would just be cool to have a set of beefy ag's to use - they are pretty sweet looking on these tractors!! :biggrin2.gif:

The guy I buy tires from is trying to find a price & availability on Firestones similar to what Cub61 has on his tractor.....hopefully they are available still? I am sure the price for two new ones will just about floor me though.