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  #11  
Old 08-13-2019, 07:58 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drglinski View Post
I have 23X10.5-12 tires, is a 10" plow good, or should I look for a 12"? I understand how to measure them.

Thanks
There is no set answer to that question. It depends on soil type and your tractor. I used to have 23-10.50s tires on my 149 and 10 inch plow. I kept destroying pins in driveshaft. I replace the hub and rag joints in it with no help.
I went to 8.50s ag tires and the driveshaft issues went away. That was at least 15 years ago. The 8.50 tire was running on the bottom of the furrow. The 10.50 tire sometimes ran on the previous round plowed soil. The shock from the spinning tire hitting a hard surface cause the pin(s) in the drive shaft to break. I have a better ride on the 8.50 tires.

Since you have 10.50 ag tires I would find a 10 inch plow. I wouldn't go to a smaller width tire or an 12 inch plow. You may be able to get by with an 12 inch plow on sandy-loose soil. You wouldn't where I live. A tractor design to pull an 5 bottom plow will be lucky 4 bottom plow.
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2019, 10:39 PM
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SS5150 SS5150 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
Found a picture of the gap I talk about behind the plow point and the correct way to measure a plow. This is an 12 inch plow.
What/where is the gap? I've got a 10" that I can't get to track correctly, the point is worn down; but when is it considered worn out?
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2019, 05:14 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS5150 View Post
What/where is the gap? I've got a 10" that I can't get to track correctly, the point is worn down; but when is it considered worn out?
Looking at my picture in post 8:
The point is the part that is touching the table by my tape measure.
The gap is right behind the point.
Can you post a picture of your plow point.

Tracking issue:
Is the plow hitch up per Brinly instructions?
The land assembly should be against the furrow wall and no more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the bottom of the furrow.

You may have to use adjust the left side stop bolt on your sleeve hitch to get your plow to track right.

I adjust one thing at a time when I set a plow up.

Good questions.
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  #14  
Old 08-16-2019, 05:00 PM
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Bought me a new project today. It was (mostly) local, and less than his asking price by a somewhat significant amount. 10" All of the hardware is rusted, the coulter doesn't want to turn well, the depth control doesn't move...however I feel like it'll free up with penetrating oil (and maybe heat) and it doesn't look wore out in any of the places it would be wore out in. The moldboard has surface rust (still some black on it in places) that I can clean off and shine up. The PO told me he bought it new back when he built his house and drug it around the yard to work up the ground (most likely incorrectly, haha).

All that's next is a sleeve hitch adapter that Jeff in PA is building me; I've got the AG tires, weights and spring assist. I've downloaded the manual and have been reading up on proper setup/use.
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2019, 09:18 PM
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Update: cleaned up the bottom and have broken free the adjuster and most of the bolts. However the coulter is still stuck hard to the coulter stay.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2019, 09:50 PM
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Decided to go the extended sleeve hitch adapter from Jeff in PA. He does darn nice work! I received it unpainted and actually like that I can paint it myself. I mocked it up a bit today but having never had any experience in the least with sleeve hitch adapters/implements I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. The straps on the correct way, or does it matter? Do I have the bottom U hitch on the correct way, or is it upside down?

I have to make the implement plate as I don't have one of those, but I don't foresee that being a big deal. The part that's the most frustrating is a PO bent the tiller mount so the right side pin won't go through 4 holes; I've temporarily got a smaller bolt running through it but I know it isn't a good idea to leave it there. I'm trying to track down a hydraulic press so I can try to bend it straight again. I know I can remove the tiller mount and use it that way as it will work, but then what was the point of getting an extended sleeve hitch?


PS I don't know why the format here oriented the two bottom photos the incorrect way, I took them all the same.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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