Replacing driveline on 128 cub

[twoton]

I'm not familiar with how the driveshaft on a 128 attaches to the input shaft on the transmission. Does it use yokes like this?

[twoton]

I stole these pictures from sawdustdad;

[twoton]

Is this a new driveshaft? There are at least 3 different lengths of drivshaft. Somewhere around here there's a list of them....

[finsruskw]

I believe The shaft in your illustration with the bearing and grease fitting is for a later model Quiet line ser #612808 and above.
The 128 is the series before the QL's and ending in ser#529811 and does not use a rear yoke and rag joints, just a sleeve over the driveshaft and input shaft.

Maybe that is the issue here, mismatched parts intended for a different model.
Without pictures of the OP's rig it's anyone's guess and a crapshoot

[dale c.]

the small end of the spacer goes to the back and the spring goes inside the spacer

[twoton]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

I believe The shaft in your illustration with the bearing and grease fitting is for a later model Quiet line ser #612808 and above.
The 128 is the series before the QL's and ending in ser#529811 and does not use a rear yoke and rag joints, just a sleeve over the driveshaft and input shaft.

Maybe that is the issue here, mismatched parts intended for a different model.
Without pictures of the OP's rig it's anyone's guess and a crapshoot

That's what I thought. Just a sleeve. Carpetbagger asked what the part number was for the yoke that goes with the rag joint. You may be right, he may have some odd parts...

[Carpetbagger]

The yolk in the reply was not what I have on my 128. What I have is a small "barrell" with opposing holes for roll pins to attach to the drive shaft (with one pin) and another pin to attach the barrell to the transmission. I saw that yolk (that I was asking about the part number) on a 2015 post from two ton. Does the spring and spacer go together like the picture of the old and new parts recently posted. Also, shouldn't I be able to check the working of the clutch without the motor being attached? The bottom of the lever seems to drag over the spacer without compressing the heavy spring. I'm beginning to wonder about different sizes of drive shafts being the cause of all my troubles. What happened was I bought this tractor years back. (Used from a mechanically inclined individual who got it in a trade.) It was working fine when I bought it, but who knows how it was DIY-engineered to get it that way. The serial number on the tractor is 80500458491491. When shifting started to falter, I started to get kind of rammy-jammy on the clutch pedal, and when I decided it wasn't going to heal itself, and I got it apart there was several parts rusted and seized, which I thought replacing would fix, and when I looked up the parts diagram was the first I saw of the spacer and teaser spring. (They weren't on the shaft.) Whether they were and I lost them or they never were, I don't know. As soon as the missus and my technical crew gets home, I'll try and figure out how to post some pictures that might help. I sooo appreciate all you guys' help and suggestions. Carpetbagger

[finsruskw]

IMHO The engine should be in place and supporting that end of the driveshaft/clutch assl'y to properly adjust the clutch operation.
Is the driveshaft where the spring, and T/O bearing mount clean and smooth?

A little shot of WD won't hurt a thing where the spring compresses and the T/O bearing slide on the drive shaft.

If the shaft is worn or grooved from the spring and T/O bearing the bearing may be wanting to "cock" and hang up on the shaft where it slides.

Is there a lot of slop/play in the clutch fork hanger?
Worn holes and or pin?

[Cub Cadet 123]

First, Carpetbagger, watch what you say in a public forum, as your words may be seen as offensive to others. Others, who might be able to help you out!

Here are some pictures of a recently removed 108 driveshaft line. Pretty easy to see how it installs if you have it ready to go in. 3 holes on front slide into your pins on the plate at the back of the engine, bolt on top of frame, just in front of the tower, sleeve coupler over the shaft on rear end and insert roll pin and hook up link to pedal shaft with a washer and pin. You will need to unbolt the engine or rear end to install Hopefully these pictures help.

Cub Cadet 123[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[R Bedell]

NOTE: Edited carpetbaggers posting.