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#11
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Clean the crack area for at least one inch in all directions, then apply JB Weld,
while the JB Weld is still unhardened, embed a piece of 40 mesh stainless steel screen in the epoxy,, ![]() The screen will cost less than the JB Weld,,, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-S...-TL_JVwQ5z8zsA Use lots of disc brake cleaner on the pan and screen before applying any epoxy. Another good tip is to wait the recommended time after mixing the epoxy, before applying. The "wait period" allows the epoxy to be applied thicker, and is much stronger. If the crack goes around a corner, you can bend the stainless steel screen to match, before starting to mix the epoxy,,, The screen is thin enough to be cut with regular scissors,,, If there is room, the screen can be applied to both sides of the crack. |
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#12
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Are you sure the engine in question here actually IS a 10 HP??
I suppose someone could have installed a deep sump pan on a 10HP engine though. Good idea to check to make sure. And it would be best to resurface the mating areas of the pan to make sure it doesn't crack again when torqued down onto the block. |
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#13
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The numbers off the shot motor (with the flat pan) is K241AS 8260967 Spec # 463290. I have nothing on the donor motor with the sump pan, although it is identical to the other except for the pan. I'm really hoping the flat pan might work as it was what was in and working before throwing the rod and it would make it so much easier to re-install the engine including the clips on the clutch if I could slide the engine straight in. That also might be the reason for the thrown rod. Who knows? As Dad used to say, "Hoping ain't making it happen." though. How do I find out the horsepower rating from the serial numbers? Thanks, as always. Carpetbagger
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#14
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Do both motors have the flywheel housings on?
And both indicate K241 engine spec's? Then they both are probably the same. These K series engines usually have the #'s (K341, 321 301 etc.) cast into the PTO end of the block. I don't suppose you have the PTO's off either one?? |
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#15
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If the tag says K241 then its 10 hp. I can't swear that all the K241's (at least in Cubs) were flat pans but maybe someone else can confirm that. However, the next larger motor, the 12 hp K301 does have the deeper (sump) pan. Your donor motor is probably not a K241. Without a tag your only route is to pull the head and measure the bore.
You can go to this site and download the parts manual for the K241 (and others). The Spec number breaks down what part numbers your engine uses. The part number for your K241 pan is KH237588. https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee...ducts_id=12023 And you never mentioned what model Cub the K241 is from? |
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#16
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The 241 AS is out of a narrow frame 126.
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#17
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The Cub 126 did not come with K241, it came with K301. The donor engine sounds like it is more the correct engine. If it is good and needs nothing, just put it in as is and be done with it.
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#18
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Quote:
Clean with a stainless steel wire brush, preheat and weld. I am NOT a fan of brake cleaner when heat or welding is done. Read this https://www.brewracingframes.com/saf...sgene-gas.html Jeff oh, if it were my pan, I'd just replace it. |
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#19
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While I was cleaning and fiddling with the donor engine (the one with no tags) I noticed a sticker under the gas tank bracket, so I took the bracket off and there was a sticker stating Kohler 12 hp, nothing else but now we know the reason for the difference in pans, and yes the reason for the sump is for the clearance of the dipper on the rod cap. Tomorrow, I'm headed to a local lawn tractor boneyard to see what I can find in the way of pans and maybe a different donor engines. Thanks again to all for the knowledge and advice. It is much appreciated. Carpetbagger
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#20
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So, you/someone scrapped a 126, the 3rd rarest cub built for the engine??
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