Cub Cadet 122 - Doesn't Move Except with Slight Pressure on Pedal

[Bob95065]

DeltaCub best me to it too. When you put slight pressure on the pedal it puts pressure on the shaft in the backward direction. That will force the shaft back together enough to transmit enough power to move slightly.

When I put a new clutch in my 1000 I bought a new driveshaft from Jeff in PA. My original shaft had steps in it that were worn by the throwout bearing. The new shaft fit perfectly and the clutch works good as new after I replaced all necessary parts.

That being said if you put a creeper in it the driveshaft will need to be cut down to just behind the next hole forward of the original rear coupler. You would cut the broken portion off. If you go this route if I were you I would remove the shaft and inspect it thoroughly for any wear or damage. It isn't worth your time to use worn parts. Safest path forward is buying a new shaft no matter which way you go - creeper or no creeper.

[GreenAcre]

Oh man.. I hope I don't have to buy more parts. Nothing against supporting Jeff or anyone. Just was hoping to get this thing in the field to plow and till like two weeks ago.

I doubt it, but are these parts interchangeable with a CC 128? I have a 128 that's a parts piece just sitting there. Didn't know if I could swap driveshafts.

[Bob95065]

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think those parts interchange between narrow frame and wide frame tractors. The experts will chime in soon I hope.

[DeltaCub]

The spirol pin replacement is a cheap and easy repair IF the shaft and coupling are not worn out.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by GreenAcre

Oh man.. I hope I don't have to buy more parts. Nothing against supporting Jeff or anyone. Just was hoping to get this thing in the field to plow and till like two weeks ago.

I doubt it, but are these parts interchangeable with a CC 128? I have a 128 that's a parts piece just sitting there. Didn't know if I could swap driveshafts.

The 128 is a wide frame ( WF ) and the 122 is a narrow frame ( NF ). The driveshafts will not interchange as they are different lengths.

Make sure you get a spirol pin and NOT a roll pin. BIG difference in strength.

[GreenAcre]

Thank you for the info on the WF vs. NF and interchangeability, and the pin differences! Much appreciated, Jeff!

[GreenAcre]

Hey guys, following back up with you all here (and anyone who comes here from the future) to say that you were right!

The pin at the transmission was broken. I swapped both pins out and the wonky issue is fixed!

BUT... (there's always a but, huh?)

I now have what feels like clutch slippage. In fact, it will not pull in 2nd or 3rd gear going up hill at all. It just slows and the driveshaft quits spinning.

Is there a way to adjust the tension of the clutch on the pressure plate? I just put a new clutch on this tractor as part of this endeavour.

Thanks!
Sam

[finsruskw]

Check to see if the teaser spring is not broken and the main spring is not broken.

It appears from the close up photos you posted the teaser spring does not look right to me.

Lock the brake pedal all the way down.
This will release the pressure on both of these springs.
Then examine them closely.
The 126 I am now working on had this exact same problem.'
Both the teaser and the main spring were broken.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by GreenAcre

Is there a way to adjust the tension of the clutch on the pressure plate? I just put a new clutch on this tractor as part of this endeavour.

Thanks!
Sam

This is the clutch adjustment. It won't alter the pressure on the pressure plates unless you have the nut cranked back too far. When you adjust this, you may have to go back and re-adjust the brake as the clutch and brake work in concert off the same pedal. Read the book, it tells you how, pages 2-15 & 16.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4641

[GreenAcre]

Thanks for the clutch adjustment tip on nut.

Here's photos of the spring. It is broken. Maybe this is the cause of the clutch slippage? The bigger/longer one seems to be intact.