Model 100?

[Rotarygod]

Thanks fellas! It's an exciting new project for sure.. as though I need anymore.
BUT I can work this one on and off on the side. I split it last night and popped the gear cover and found...cubs-n-bxrs called it. Water and gear lube and very rusty mechanisms. I'm going to clean them up as good I can and try to get them out to really give them a good polishing assuming they arent pitted beyond useability. If not there is a fairly smashed 102 nearby thats really cheap that might have a good trans or I may see if anyone here has some spare internals. As far as I can tell all the gears look ok. Clean shiny teeth, none missing and they all turn smooth with no chunkiness or clunkiness. I think just the shifter rods and mechanism are whats bad.

I had no idea the round fenders were so popular. I will admidt I think they are pretty cool and very stylish. These are in really good shape too. No rust, no dents, no creases. They do appear to have holes as though it may have had the optional lights.

I also found a ballast resistor (mopar style) hiding under the battery tray on the left outside. My 147 has no such that I have seen. I've been reading up on that a little. Not since my 74 cuda have I had to deal with one of these little jerks. Always kept a couple spares in the glovebox.

The rest of the wiring is pretty hacked up. I think I'll pull it all and just make up a new harness.

Does anyone know if the GM style screw in side posts were normal on these 100's? That's what mine has as of now. I prefer a normal clamp but I'll go original.

I have 2 trains of thought on this one.
1: Restore and redo it all oem with the correct paint and sell it to fund other ones.
2: restomod it again with all oem paints and looks BUT give it a kick in the pants and make a fun little puller out of it.

I wasn't as interested in it at first but it is quickly growing on me. Sigh... the sickness got me again.

More pics to come!

[finsruskw]

Pitch that resistor.
Not used on a Cub.
Needs a coil with an internal resistor.
Make sure you get the correct one for that application.
And you may as well spring for a new plug and condenser while at it and maybe a new plug wire.
Then static time that 'ol girl and you should be all set in the ignition dept allowing there is a good flow of fresh fuel available.
Should start and be running before you can even let go of the key!!

Good luck and have fun!!

[darkminion_17]

Nice find on the 100, looks like a Lew deal to me.
You may want to pull the rear cover off and see if there is ant rust down there.

[Rotarygod]

Few pics from the work I've done so far.

The rust wound up being mostly surface believe it or not and the shafts and forks cleaned up nicely and now they slide like greased glass.

The diff looks good too. The internal brake was alright with just a few small pits.

One of the forks was cracked so I straightened, welded and reinforced it. and of interest as I was washing under the hood I found the original owners pencil notes for belt numbers and starter generator part numbers. Kind of a neat little easter egg.

[finsruskw]

That rust is caused from sweating due to sitting outside more than likely during all kinds of weather, temp changes, rain humidity etc etc.

Glad to hear the stuff cleaned up easily for you.'
I picked up a 70 here a while back that is in the same boat.
The fluid drained out looking like melted ice cream almost.

[Rotarygod]

Sorry for the lack of updates everyone. I get my head in the garage and I forget to come back out sometimes.

I went into a pretty much full teardown on this thing. I'm leaving the engine together because I'm sure it's fine.

I got a local paint shop to mix up the right yellow and I began stripping it.
WHAT ON EARTH did IH use for paint back then? This stuff just won't let go of some of the parts. Aircraft remover won't touch it. Even sandblasting was taking forever. I was using wire wheels in a grinder for the cast stuff and I ended up using 36 grit flap discs in the steel to get it stripped because the wire wheels wouldn't even get the steel bare. I have it mostly stripped now but that was an ordeal.

Once I got the frame down I found a few cracks, mostly around the motor mount holes that I welded and cleaned up. I also found that the tunnel top was seperating from the frame rails and rusting between so I stitch welded the two until it was a solid line to keep it from being exposed again. Racecar guy me says it might add a little strength to the frame but that's neither the point nor would it be much if so.

I have to strip a few more parts and I'll be ready for paint.
MY tower and dash were rough, rusty and abused. I'm looking at another dash near me that I may grab to save time.

The rear wheels were so rusted there were holes in them under the rust so they are essentially junk but I may salvage the centers to use as drive sprockets on the dozer build I have planned.

Pics