Kohler K301AQS - Worth rebuilding? - Page 2

ICOM 756 · #11 07-05-2021, 02:57 PM

will geo. i bet it tasted like chit hahaha

i can only add one thing to this..... and TRUST ME I LEARNED....

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN HOT SOAP WATER AFTER U GET PARTS BACK and the new rod and piston rings
. i used p oil after washing as it was goin to set a few days. it will rust up fast.. or use motor oil and dont be scared. bath it good.

CLEAN IT AGAIN.... once you cleaned it DO IT AGAIN..... clean the crank clean the rod and piston and rings. clean the block.. do the valves also... have the shop check the guides... lap the valves .. you dont have the tool.. will goto napa they have it.. remember even tho u might use it once. its good to have a tool not need it again to not having it and needing it..

once that is all done CLEAN IT AGAIN....

not sure i said this but CLEAN IT ... yeah people be like omg this guy is nuts..

i toss this out there.. many people have used them.. they sell the whole kit for these motors. everything but the crank ..comes with valves . crank bearings rod piston of your choice on both. gaskets points plug i think. heck even comes with a carb i think ..
some will say get the real kohler. i would say yes to that if you were goin to use it hardcore mowing tilling so on.. but if its a yard wagon puller.. the kits are fine..

the guy who did my machining of block. builds pulling motors. he said for the avg home user the kit norm sells is fine..

i save tractors. norm is a cool kid and he supports his homestead and family form his biz..

hint.. no mater what u get kohler or aftermarket stuff.. if the shop wants to punch the hole before they get piston and rod. walk away and find a new shop.. no shop should punch the hole till they have the piston and rod in hand. but they will tell you to get.. 10 - 20 - 30 over and 10 - 20 under on crank once they mic it.

if i remember right... last year it cost me around 750 for total rebuild. thats all in ..

mortten · #12 07-05-2021, 06:00 PM

The local guy that ground my crank wouldn’t do it until I had the new rod. He said he’s seen too many that were off right out of the box. The .020 rod I bought from I Save Tractors was .002 off. He matched the crank to the rod.

ol'George · #13 07-05-2021, 06:13 PM

Thanks guys, I've been preaching all that for a long while.
Glad yall was listening, and not to leave out others with like experiences.
You want the engine as clean as a surgeon removing yer gizzard that is rotten.

And don't drill a hole in the still until ya got the right cork to plug er up.

jbrewer · #14 07-06-2021, 05:18 PM

Heck yes, I'd rebuild that.

I was at Lowes today and the absolute bottom feeder riding mower (not a garden tractor) is almost $1700. That'll buy you a POS MTD Big Box Special that is nearly disposable .

Fix that Kohler and it's good for another 30 yrs of mowing. *If* you check the oil and change it every year.

OverKnight · #15 07-06-2021, 07:55 PM

To add to what ICOM 756 said, thoroughly clean all of your tools (wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers) before assembling the engine. Old toothbrushes with something like mineral spirits or a degreaser are great for cleaning the insides of sockets and box wrenches.

Dawn dishwashing soap is my favorite grease cutting soap for the final cleaning of engine parts. You'll also need some good assembly lube and a decent torque wrench.