My 3 cubs- a work thread - Page 2

Mudrig150 · #11 09-01-2025, 10:59 PM

Got the engine pulled on the 782 in preparation for it to go into the 1912 frame. This is quite strange, undoing something that was such a monumental milestone...

Also pulled the rear cover on the 1912 to check the condition of the gears. Considering the open dipstick and the overall state of the rear end, I was half expecting to find either rust or carnage, but was pleasantly surprised to see that it's just clean inside.
Also, side note, they welded the weep holes on the freewheel valves closed to stop them from leaking...

Mudrig150 · #12 09-03-2025, 02:07 AM

1912 is safe and sound inside. Engine mount plate is off, of course the bolts had previously run loose and were smashing into the axle, 2 nice witness marks where the bolt heads hit... Need to do some cleaning in the frame and then the Kawasaki can be dropped in. Steering box is going to need replaced but I think that a square fender Deere box will bolt right up, though I'll need to confirm if the length is right.
Hopefully everything else goes smoothly enough...

Mudrig150 · #13 09-05-2025, 12:39 AM

Decided that parting out the 782 or the diesel was kind of a shame, so I traded the 782 for a 1711. The 782 will be getting a repower instead of getting parted out, and I got my parts tractor.
Got it cleaned up a bit, pulled the fender pan and hood already and got them thrown on the 1912 and the diesel. Transmission needs pulled from the 1912 again so I can swap the pump internals and the transmission housing, and still need to do more cleaning.

Mudrig150 · #14 09-10-2025, 03:24 AM

Engine is in, doing a bit of cleaning. Got some of the rust off the hood and scraped as much of the dirt out of the inside as possible. Also got the tunnel cover straightened out enough for the holes to line up. I got some square stock ordered to space the tank and fenders higher up and get everything bolted down.
I know the picture sucks, but does it look like I have enough room to fit a rear PTO? I would love to have one but not sure it'll fit if it sticks up above the frame rails to the point of interfering with the fuel tank.
The bottom of the tank will be pretty much level with the top of the frame.

Mudrig150 · #15 09-11-2025, 04:24 PM

Got the engine in and the steering back together on the 1912. Made a huge error when ordering a column, and bought one for a Deere just worried about length.

Put the column in, turned steering wheel to the left... wheels turned right. Turns out the worm on the 1912 box is flipped compared to every other steering box I have. It's good enough to mock everything up, I suppose... I'm now down the 1912/982 specific column AND missing the 1912/982 specific hydraulic line to the valve. Seems like every 1912 specific part is either busted or missing...

Mudrig150 · #16 10-05-2025, 01:24 AM

Finally got an exhaust for the 1912. There isn't an off the shelf muffler that fits, so I figured the most common one would be my best bet.
Pump needs torn down for an internal inspection to see why it stopped driving but the missing trunion springs and the trailer ball on the back kind of give me an idea.
Still need to get the driveshaft figured out which is definitely going to cost me because none of the factory driveshaft options fit, either because they hit the radiator (in the case of the rag joint driveshaft) or are too long (in the case of the 2000 series or cyclops CV driveshaft)
I've got to find a shop to cut and weld the 2000 series driveshaft shorter so it'll fit. I've got a list of parts left to make or buy: driveshaft fan and pump coupler, pressure line to the hydraulic valve (982/1912 specific, of course), steering box, wiring, battery box, muffler heat shield, a brake caliper, plus the throttle and choke cables since the factory ones are too short.
Hoping to get the 1912 going to run the snowblower this winter because the 20 hp is going to be nice for that.

The diesel is also being torn down, I want to get power steering from a super because its steering is weirdly heavy, and also to replace the starter since it decided to up and die on me.

Mudrig150 · #17 10-06-2025, 12:06 AM

Throttle and choke cables installed, side panels cleaned up, headlights are in...
The 1711 parts tractor is coming in real handy, so far it's given basically everything to the 1912 and the hood and grille to the diesel. Kind of sad that it's a parts tractor, all the panels are in such good shape but the mechanical side of it is just... not good. Lots of rust from being a snow clearing tractor with weighted tires, the rims are in amazing cosmetic shape but are ROTTEN BAD around the valve stems.
Thanks to it, though, the 1912 is a lot better than the shabby frame I got it as!

Mudrig150 · #18 10-07-2025, 03:28 AM

Pump teardown underway. Everything looks perfectly normal, still machining marks on everything and no major damage. Was expecting it to be like the hydro pump I tore down, where the charge pump was horrifically scored, the internals were overly worn, and the diff housing was full of busted gear teeth despite having no gear damage. Filter on this transmission does have a huge hole in it, so I'm thinking that's what made the tractor lose all power from the transmission.
Cast iron transmission housing has been torn down and I'll be putting it all back together with the axles from my 1210 transmission because the super brakes are larger and the cast axle housings lack the brackets for the super calipers, though I'm missing one anyway so not like it matters.

Mudrig150 · #19 10-11-2025, 02:35 AM

Finally got my tank mounted, and the fender support brackets drilled. I don't think a rear 3 point will work on this tractor with the fuel tank that's in it, unfortunately. I think the rockshaft is going to hit the bottom of the tank. Planning on getting my driveshaft adapter from Jeff in PA so I can get the length measurement for the driveshaft shortening. Slowly getting closer and closer to getting it all done...

Sergeant · #20 10-12-2025, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150

Finally got my tank mounted, and the fender support brackets drilled. I don't think a rear 3 point will work on this tractor with the fuel tank that's in it, unfortunately. I think the rockshaft is going to hit the bottom of the tank. Planning on getting my driveshaft adapter from Jeff in PA so I can get the length measurement for the driveshaft shortening. Slowly getting closer and closer to getting it all done...

With the Cat O Made By xtreme https://www.xtrememotorworks.com/col...t-modified-kit the Tank shouldn't Interfere with the 3 point rocker shaft