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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Rear Engine Rider & ZTR (RER)

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  #11  
Old 08-25-2025, 04:38 PM
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ironman ironman is online now
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OK, so on the regulator, the yellow wire with green connector plugs into the black wire from the alternator,
and the red wire plugs into the wire harness.
So with the yellow and black wire disconnected,
you should see at least 28 volts A.C. at 3600 RPM
on the black wire coming from the alternator.

If you don't see 28VAC volts, then the alternator is bad.
If you do see 28VAC and only see the same 12.5VDC voltage at the battery
terminal whether the black to yellow is connected or not,
then you either have a bad regulator or possibly a bad connection
in your engine connector or elsewhere in your wire harness.
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2025, 08:46 AM
joedirt16 joedirt16 is offline
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Cool. I'll have to double-check this tonight. I'm fairly certain I did, and I'm not getting anything near that. I did look, and when I replaced this in May, it was an Amazon order. Maybe it's just a junk part.
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2025, 07:25 PM
joedirt16 joedirt16 is offline
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Before I go and buy a new alternator, because I only have 14.5vAC coming from the alternator while running at full speed, is it possible it is a grounding issue somewhere? Or likely, the Amazon alternator I got is a cheap one and sucks?
I know the earlier gentleman suggested the magnets don't just lose magnetism, but is there a way to test them?
I'm just trying to think of any other possible solutions as well.

Thanks again!
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2025, 08:05 PM
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Just to cover all the bases....

1. Are you sure you have your volt meter set to AC volts. (not DC volts)?

2. Are you measuring with the black lead from the alternator disconnected and one meter lead on it, the other meter lead to a good connection on the engine block (ground)?

3. I agree, the magnets do not lose their power, but I have seen them come loose and move out of place (they are epoxy glued) and give bad readings. But 9 times out of 10 they disintegrate and cause havoc.

If you can verify all of the above and still see only 14VAC, I don't see how it can be anything but a bad alternator....

BUT - You say you bought the new a alternator in May from Amazon. Did it ever actually fix your problem and later go bad, or did it never help at all? That would give some clues.
And - Do you still have the old alternator? If so, put it back in and run same tests and see what you get.
Best I can do, Good Luck.
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2025, 08:43 PM
joedirt16 joedirt16 is offline
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I'm an idiot/beginner. It was in AC volts, but, I was getting 14 only with the test lead on, not grounded. Grounded I'm getting 38vAC. SOOOO, I've been going down, and leading you down a wild goose chase.

Dag nabbit.

I know the lights on the hour meter aren't always accurate, but the battery light comes on when the PTO is engaged.

Goodness, I apologize for being not smart!!
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  #16  
Old 08-27-2025, 12:06 AM
joedirt16 joedirt16 is offline
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Found a video, tested the ohms on the PTO clutch. Almost no resistance measuring 0.6. Safe to say I found what was draining the battery.
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