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  #11  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:31 PM
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Normal solder will work just fine, wash out the tank well with hot & soap and water and re sweat the fitting into the tank.
Acid or rosin core solder works well or soldering paste. You want it
re sweated not "mudded" I prefer to use a big old soldering copper,
not a propane torch. But if it is clean a torch will work ok.
The key here is CLEAN and use acid or paste. I would not braze it. Brazing is too hot, even silver solder is a little too hot.
I guess plastic tanks are ok, but I prefer old school galvanized steel.
They went to plastic because it is rust free, & less expensive to manufacture.
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:32 PM
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Thanks. I'll look around for it.
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  #13  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:09 AM
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Flatbedford,

If this ever happens again and you want to trace the leak, you might try either adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel or Sta-Bil--both are actually good to use as a fuel additive (read proportions on labels) and they will tint the fuel a redish color to help you trace the leaky area. I've done this before with good results and I hope that you never need it, but just in case....

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  #14  
Old 09-16-2010, 05:21 PM
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Thanks for the advice. The shop foreman at work set me up with some silver solder and correct flux. He says that he repairs motorcycle tanks the same way. I just have to make sure I don't blow myself up with the fumes. He says rinse thoroughly with soap and water first.
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2010, 08:47 PM
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I already had that site bookmarked. I didn't realize it was that one. I have used it a few times. Thanks anyway.
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  #16  
Old 09-16-2010, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbedford View Post
Thanks for the advice. The shop foreman at work set me up with some silver solder and correct flux. He says that he repairs motorcycle tanks the same way. I just have to make sure I don't blow myself up with the fumes. He says rinse thoroughly with soap and water first.
I would be more worried with trying to silver solder where there has been regular or soft solder,as there is quite a difference in melting temperature.
I wouldn't do it, I would use regular solder.
Silver solder is right up there with brazing rod as far as melting temp.
Maybe I should say that has been my experience, or possibly he gave you a special silver solder.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2010, 11:27 PM
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Default Too much heat

It was mentioned that I be carefull not to heat out the soider out from under the nipple plate , BTW. .
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2010, 11:32 PM
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The guy who set me up with the stuff thought that it was silver solder when he looked at the tank. That's why he suggested it. Do we know for sure what Kohler used? He also said that as long as I clean it thoroughly and apply the flux all around the silver solder will find its way and close up the gap. I'll have to do some research on silver solder before I do anything.
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2010, 11:35 PM
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Alot of folks call lead free solder "silver solder" improperly. its melting temp is not much more than 50/50 very feasible with propane. Plus its much stronger Than 50/50.
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2010, 11:39 PM
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Silver solder wont melt with propane. you need at least methylated acetylene (MAPP) or oxy-acetylene. Silver solder is very stiff in rod form hard to bend. Lead free solder is bendable and usually on a roll.
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