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  #11  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:35 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mizar N68X View Post
Anybody wanna buy a nice running 105 that doesnt move????
Don't be discouraged so soon.

Pulling the transaxle out isn't all that hard, and the valves will usually free-up with a little work.

On the bright side, while you have the it out, you can clean everything and repair the trunnion, after you put it back in, you should be good for a LONG time.

After you get it running AND moving, you may just like it. Hydros are great for mowing and pushing snow.
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2010, 08:56 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Originally Posted by Mizar N68X View Post
Hello Loghouse,
I just read through the manual that bsyphrit posted.
Yep! Looks like I would have to split this tractor to get it going.
I still have to go back and read through the "SPLIT" process in section 2-34.
Anybody wanna buy a nice running 105 that doesnt move????
I too was worried about splitting my 122 but it's really easy. The only part I don't like about it is messing with the fenders and seat pan. Other then that it's pretty easy. Trust me once you do it once you'll be able to knock it out in no time once you do it once.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2010, 10:45 AM
Mizar N68X Mizar N68X is offline
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Thanks for help guys-gals....
I was kidding about selling.....
I will take my camera and post some photos of my progress...
Later...
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:41 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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If I'm not mistaken you don't have to pull the fenders/seat support and other "sheet metal" parts from a 125 to get the transaxle out, because there is no shifter to take out.

The last 125 I picked up (about 2-1/2 years ago) ran very well. I pulled the engine, transaxle, seat, fenders, steering column and forward reverse mechanism... (Didn't take the hood, grill shell or dash tower off). I pressure washed 40 years worth of "stuff" off of the trans/rear end, engine, and out of the frame, fixed the trunnion, repaired the drive hub, replaced the pin in the drive shaft, rebuilt the steering column, changed fluids and filter and cleaned the rear end out, cleaned up and adjusted the tension on the forward/reverse mechanism, put it all back together, loaded the tires and put chains on, all in a 3 day weekend. (actually I think I loaded the tires and put the chains on the following day) All total I had about another $100.00 in the tractor and it's been running great ever since.

Anyway, the point is, if you're going to use it as a "worker" it's SO much easier (and faster) to repair the little hard to get to annoying things, if you take it apart in big chunks, and wash everything first, make the repairs, then bolt the big parts back on. You can even change points and adjust the timing with the engine out, saving yourself a headache and a ton of time. As far as "workers" go, I don't think I'll ever "fart around" nickel and dimeing another one. With all the resources here, it isn't hard (even for a beginner) to find out what kinds of repairs you are likely to run into and what parts you're going to need so you can get them together in advance. Keep in mind that there may still be other issues like; tie rod ends, carb. rebuild, cleaning out the fuel tank... that will need to be done later, but those things are basic and easy and can be done quickly enough with little aggravation. IMHO, if you do the "hard to get to" stuff at one time, the other things can be done "an hour at a time" and your tractor isn't "down" for days at a time, while you lay underneath it reaching up into a greasy, dirty hole.

Less time messing around with one means a LOT more seat time and a lot more fun.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:51 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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It's also MUCH easier to crawl around underneath a clean NF tractor to disconnect the brake and hydro linkage than under a dirty tractor. Leave the driveshaft connected to the rear and pull it out with the trans; that way you don't have to mess with reaching the bolts for the rear coupler under the tractor.
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:24 PM
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Flatbedford Flatbedford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mizar N68X View Post
The lever was down and the catch was applied on the RH side by the seat.
Pardon me if I am pointing out the obvious, but after reading what I quote here, I have to ask, did you release the catch? The catch should be released for the tractor to move.
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2010, 08:07 PM
Mizar N68X Mizar N68X is offline
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Hello Flatbedford,
Yes I did release the lever.
I am curious though, once released there is no resistance and the lever lays at about 5 O'clock.
Should the lever have spring tension to stay at 3 O'clock or just be kinda floppy?
GREAT Question Flatbedford!!!!!
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2010, 08:39 PM
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Don't be intimidated about working on it, not long ago I was intimidated about swapping engines but I did it and now I can't be stopped. With the help on this site and just digging in you will build confidence in your ability in no time. Yes, you may sit there and stare at it for an hour or so and that is OK, but once you have studied up on what you need to do just go for it. You'll be glad you did. I know so much more than I did a year ago, but still have many years of learning to be like some of these guys here and they will not let you down.
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2010, 09:14 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cub149 View Post
Don't be intimidated about working on it, not long ago I was intimidated about swapping engines but I did it and now I can't be stopped. With the help on this site and just digging in you will build confidence in your ability in no time. Yes, you may sit there and stare at it for an hour or so and that is OK, but once you have studied up on what you need to do just go for it. You'll be glad you did. I know so much more than I did a year ago, but still have many years of learning to be like some of these guys here and they will not let you down.
Perfectly said... I've leaned more from this site and just doing it in the past 5 months than I have in the past however many years of owning a cub and knowing very very little about them.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2010, 09:47 PM
Mizar N68X Mizar N68X is offline
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Hello DX3
Hello Cub149
Thank you for the encouragement.< I need spell check While I am far from a mechanic, I am very good with my hands.
I have restored a few cars and worked on more than I can count.
I guess before I dig into this 105 very deep I need to ask another question.
I do not have any implements to go with my 105.
What deck does this tractor use and are they hard to find?I already have a dedicated tractor to pull my lawn cart around.
I get GREAT satisfaction from making something old work again.
I love OLD mowers and would not give a penny for anything made past 1980 or so. The only exception is I like the looks of the Cyclops style Cub.
I may get one of those someday
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