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  #11  
Old 01-17-2011, 01:24 PM
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JOHN SCHUTTE JOHN SCHUTTE is offline
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Thanks jbollis for the info. The front axle channel was moved forward 2 3/4" which still allows me to use the factory motor mount plates with the aftermarket solid motor mounts. I know I lost some "free" weight on the front, but I am trying to retain a stock look. Now, how close to stock it will look when I am done?:biggrin2.gif:
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2011, 02:12 PM
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A few more pictures......
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File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1321.jpg (27.0 KB, 427 views)
File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1243.jpg (9.3 KB, 423 views)
File Type: jpg NEMESIS 660.jpg (15.2 KB, 427 views)
File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1328.jpg (39.8 KB, 427 views)
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2011, 02:39 PM
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Looks awesome, John! Thanks for the update pics!
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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Thank Allen! the head has been cleaned up and milled .020. The fender was in bad shape on the right hand corner. The PO must have needed a rear veiw mirror for backing up! That corner was folded in were they hit something. The steering box has been rebuit minus the bearing upgrade which will be purchase in the near future. I am not sure what to do with the dash/tin yet. I did go ahead and strip the old paint off and shined it up with 0000 steel wool. Should be shotting some paint by next weekend!
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2011, 09:08 PM
Hillbilly Hotrod Hillbilly Hotrod is offline
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looking good. I will be tearing my 126 down this winter and going through it to make a puller out of it.
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:37 AM
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Well, things have been slow lately on this project due to cold weather and the fact my painter has been draging his feet on shooting the red paint. I knew better than to do it, but I "pre-paid" for the work. Lesson learned. Everything but the frame and front axle is sitting in prime. The front wheels have been painted aluminum and the steering gear box has been painted satin black. I was suprised at how good a finish Dupli-color rattle cans lay down. I will post some new pictures soon.
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2011, 10:32 AM
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I mounted my front tires last night using a tip I found on youtube. Lay the rim on the ground. Get the back bead of the tire on(fairly easy). Clamp a small pair of vise grips on the lip of the rim. Use 2 flat head screwdrivers to work the outer bead over the rims lip. I tried to mount these the night before and had no luck. Using the vise grips is the way to go and it didn't even damage the paint! Both tires were mounted in less than 5 minutes!
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2011, 11:04 PM
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What did you use to strip the paint? Looks good.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2011, 09:37 AM
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I used Kleen-Strip ks3 premium stripper which can be found at Lowes. After removing the majority of the paint, I used a 1/4 sheet sander and a wire wheel in a 120v drill to remove the rest. I take all parts down to at least 99% bare metal before priming. I know, it is probably over kill.

TIP- I have used with great success 70% rubbing alcohol as a cleaner/degreaser before priming. Much cheaper than prep spray!
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  #20  
Old 02-09-2011, 09:28 AM
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Default More pictures...

First picture is the left side panel in prime. Second is the right side panel with bondo. Third shows the fiberglass job on the back side to fill in some holes. Fourth is the front wheel painted/mounted awaiting bearings.
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File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1422.jpg (15.3 KB, 282 views)
File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1423.jpg (21.2 KB, 282 views)
File Type: jpg NEMESIS 1434.jpg (17.5 KB, 284 views)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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