What gear oil in a 104 - Page 2

Methos · #11 02-03-2011, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garden trac 104

Hey cub 123! I have a 104 and I have the same kind of clutch adjustment concerns as billy . I had arm bracket pull loose and had to readjust the clutch . how do you adjust the clutch to stop the driveshaft faster . Have you ever needed to replace a release lever as a result of the mounting holes beening too worn. this is going to be part of my winter tractor job .have you ever heard of any one repairing a pin on a drive plate ? or trying to tighten pressure plate roll pin holes that are worn Thanks excuse a butt in -seems all related

Quote:

Originally Posted by garden trac 104

Hey cub 123! I have a 104 and I have the same kind of clutch adjustment concerns as billy . I had arm bracket pull loose and had to readjust the clutch . how do you adjust the clutch to stop the driveshaft faster . Have you ever needed to replace a release lever as a result of the mounting holes beening too worn. this is going to be part of my winter tractor job .have you ever heard of any one repairing a pin on a drive plate ? or trying to tighten pressure plate roll pin holes that are worn Thanks excuse a butt in -seems all related

Teet has already answered the clutch question for you in his post #3 of this thread. Here's a link to it. The links he posted will answer your questions about the clutch. Print out the pages that you need and take it to the shop with you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...31&postcount=3

Our site sponser Binder Books has manuals you can purchase so you can sit down and put your thumb on the pages while you read. The site sponsers are at the top of every page. I promise you they will take great care of you and your cub needs.

ihnick · #12 02-03-2011, 06:12 PM

so according to the chart you can use just sae 30 motor oil in the rear end for a gear drive?

Matt G. · #13 02-03-2011, 06:30 PM

I think that may mean 30W gear lube. What I usually do to save some $$$ is put the Hytran I drained out of hydro tractors in the gear drives I have if it looks ok and doesn't smell burnt.

ihnick · #14 02-03-2011, 06:53 PM

can a person use a NON cub cadet brand hytran? i think ive seen universal hydraulic transmission fluid before

garden trac 104 · #15 02-03-2011, 08:14 PM

duke thanks I'm on dial up (dsl not in my rural area) the download for service manual is over 3 hrs -maybe I'll go to the wifi bakery and download I have a jensales manual for clutch adj --is that what will make the shaft slow down faster or brake adjustment

Thanks

Matt G. · #16 02-03-2011, 08:44 PM

Honestly, both of you probably need to rebuild your clutch. Hard shifting/grinding gears usually means the pilot bearing is gunked up and sticking. You can't adjust that out.

I'd make a new driveshaft, have the pressure plates trued up on a lathe, get a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing, main spring, teaser spring, friction disc, and spirol pins, and replace any other parts that are worn.

Matt G. · #17 02-03-2011, 09:58 PM

Looks ok = looks clean. Oil drained out of any of my engines at oil change time is most certainly not clean, and therefore does not get re-used. Do you really think I'm that stupid?? An engine and gear drive transmission are completely different in terms of lubrication requirements, which is why I can get away with this and don't really appreciate being made fun of for doing so.

The hydro needs clean Hytran, and the change interval is 100 hours. If I didn't overheat the hydro and screw up the Hytran or throw a bunch of dirt in it when I changed it, it's nice, clean and barely used, compared to the dirty, dingleberry-infested crap that had thousands of hours on it and had been in most of my gear drive tractors since the day they left the factory. In a hydro, the fluid is used for power transmission, lubrication, and cooling...in a gear drive, just lubrication and a slight amount of cooling. I'd rather re-use the barely-used Hytran than some inferior off-brand fluid that isn't going to absorb any water that happens to get in there.

Try maintaining seven tractors on a college student's minimum-wage, part time income, and you'll see why I'm reusing any Hytran that still has some life left in it in my gear drives. Excuse me for trying to save some money so I have some to spend on proper repairs for things that break, instead of trying to kludge something together with what I have laying around because I spent all of my money on new Hytran for my gear drive tractors.

garden trac 104 · #18 02-03-2011, 10:03 PM

thanks matt-I know your right -

garden trac 104 · #19 02-04-2011, 12:25 AM

hey W Bill! I need to change my fluid and fix up my clutch on back . I had a shop fix my clutch and they left the clutch driving disk springs off. when I asked the repair guy about it he said I didn't need them . If you don't need um how come ? This could be a case of a reason that he left them off . What might be the reason ? He's the same guy that told me not to worry about changing the hy-tran said might cause leaks . I wonder how many guys that have old cubs and don't have time to work on them and end up paying for new parts and getting used or how many dentists poke holes in kids teeth that don't have a cavity . I appreciate the input so far on line the learning curve on navigating the site is some what difficult to me -so is typing --how come they call you wild ha!

Methos · #20 02-04-2011, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garden trac 104

hey W Bill! I need to change my fluid and fix up my clutch on back . I had a shop fix my clutch and they left the clutch driving disk springs off. when I asked the repair guy about it he said I didn't need them . If you don't need um how come ? This could be a case of a reason that he left them off . What might be the reason ? He's the same guy that told me not to worry about changing the hy-tran said might cause leaks . I wonder how many guys that have old cubs and don't have time to work on them and end up paying for new parts and getting used or how many dentists poke holes in kids teeth that don't have a cavity . I appreciate the input so far on line the learning curve on navigating the site is some what difficult to me -so is typing --how come they call you wild ha!

Sounds like time to find someone new to work on your cubs for you. They are there to stop the clutch plate from rattling, needed maybe not but stops the clutch disc from rattling, and they are like $2.50 each so not really a cost savings but they are meant to be there. The hy-tran should be changed and to suggest that it doesn't need to be is misguided at best. One of the reasons these old cubs last so long is how well they were made, but no matter how well something is built it still needs to be properly mainted.

Going to send you a pm about getting the clutch part of the manual to you so you can get your clutch adjusted right. I was not aware of the dial up service that you have.