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  #21  
Old 03-15-2014, 10:17 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clint View Post
I don't know of a GT that would pull a sub soiler in the first place as far as pulling it 14" deep, BUT maybe I'm wrong.
Well...... IHinIn has one that works. Even with TURF TIRES!


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Originally Posted by IHinIN View Post
Here's the subsoiler I built. It works decent but I had to add weight to it to get it into the ground. It needs a longer point set at more angle to help pull itself down. It does pull down better in hard packed ground than it did in my tilled garden. It went in about 12-13" in sod and had no problem pulling it even with the Sears turf tires.
There it is. I've done some deep tillage before. You just confirmed my original thoughts. When it comes to deep tillage, it's all about the "point".
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:03 PM
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duryea21 duryea21 is offline
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ok I took some advice and drilled some new holes I now have quit a lot of adjustment for the curve I will get pics up ASAP thanks for all your input !!!
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  #23  
Old 03-16-2014, 02:17 AM
clint clint is offline
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If I reply it will look I'm attacking IHinIN, and I don't plan on doing that. I will say I wish wish wish someone would fill my garden up with the soil IHinIN has in the picture, we call that compost down here LOL. Some very nice work being done by forum members making plows.

IHinIN how deep is the plow in the ground pictured in the garden you posted ? I was not jabbing you about the soil I really do wish I had a garden full of it, and we would have to pay for soil like that.
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  #24  
Old 03-16-2014, 12:15 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHinIN View Post
Here's the subsoiler I built. It works decent but I had to add weight to it to get it into the ground. It needs a longer point set at more angle to help pull itself down. It does pull down better in hard packed ground than it did in my tilled garden. It went in about 12-13" in sod and had no problem pulling it even with the Sears turf tires.



Great job, Adam!
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2014, 07:00 PM
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When it comes to subsoilers (and to some degree plows and chisel plows), it is all about your location. Where I live the soil is a tough to deal with red clay with plenty of rocks. When you head to the field here you have to use very heavy built tillage tools. Even disc harrows have to be heavyweights. Plows that don't auto-reset (look up an IH 450) are a joke. I say all this to lets keep in perspective that no lawn mower is going to pull a subsoiler properly. Not saying anyone here thinks it would, but just clarifying my perspective. I've had the opportunity to be around 4 different subsoilers. The oldest is a 1930's single bottom trailer type IHC. I was riding along 30 years ago when it stopped a 90HP Deere twice in our garden spot. By that time we also had a 2 shank 3pt hitch Deere with straight shanks. It was all our 120hp tractor wanted. I never ran that one but we never had to weight it, just the front end of the tractor. Several years back I hired a guy to no-till some beans for me, he did so in the mud. After that disaster was harvested I went in the field with a single shank subsoiler I welded up--the beam was from a Taylor-Way designed for a Farmall M, it does have a bit of curve to it. It goes in the ground easy. Unfortunately I did not build it with a shear bolt so I have to run slow for fear of breaking it. I only use it now for ripping out large rocks, pruning tree roots along the field edges, and trying to get wet natured land to drain. The last subsoiler I used was one I rented. It was a Case-IH built by DMI ( I think). It was designed for ripping in no till land. The points on it were 8 inches wide. It had gauge wheels for controlling the depth as well as wheels for packing the furrow back down. In the right soil type you were able to rip pasture and hay land without having to do anything else to level or reseed it. The one I rented was the smallest model, it had 3 shanks. After 30 minutes I had to drop the center shank as 90hp would not pull it. It wasn't that the tractor was weak either. A couple of times I stood the tractor up a couple feet in the air and it would not drop or fall on its own (yes I had a full rack of weights on the front). It wasn't easy to back up with those 8" winged points still in the ground. The fields I ran it on were so packed we had to roll them with a culti-mulcher to push the furrow ridges back down.
Forgive my ramblings and veering a bit off topic. I just don't live in an area where you can effectively garden with a lawn mower unless it is a rear tiller. I envy you guys that can. Maybe one of these days I'll have an opportunity to do some soil tilling with a Cadet. Someone earlier mentioned trying to build something with multiple shanks. I'm wondering if a mini-toolbar setup with 2 shanks, one behind each wheel would help a disc harrow go in easier. Obviously you couldn't sink it way deep in the ground, but it should let a follow up pass with a harrow be more productive.
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  #26  
Old 03-16-2014, 07:08 PM
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Adam, very nice looking work! What are you running for wheel weights, that looks like a whole lot of weight there? Also, what is the purpose of the cylinder, being able to get ground clearance travelling to the garden? Its hard to tell but it almost looks like when you are at operating depth the bottom of the subsoiler is lower than the point. Does it go in the ground any easier if you slightly retract the cylinder? My thinking is it would work like a drill bit sharpened with no clearance angle and hold the tool out of the work. By no means criticizing the work you have done. I appreciate everyone looking for new ways to keep old iron working.
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  #27  
Old 03-16-2014, 07:23 PM
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The cylinder was added to give it more travel since the 3-point doesn't have enough travel. I do need to redo the point on it. Like you said, the bottom of the shank is lower than the point. Originally, the shank was straight but I cut it and angled it forward to help it pull itself in the ground better.
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  #28  
Old 03-25-2014, 12:45 PM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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looks great, won"t be long and you can hire out to area farmers to break up hard pan.
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  #29  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:20 PM
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well I finished my tractor and got to test the subsoiler it worked great it went as deep would pull down in the ground all the way to where the ripper attaches to the plow however I did have a minor issue with the adjustment rod I hit a very large rock and bent it no big deal I made a new arm of flat stock sorry no pics but I will take some next time I use it,, here is a pic of my gt3200 just powder coated,, thanks for all the feedback the implement works great for me
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  #30  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:21 PM
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My rear hitch
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