149 Repairs Have Started - Page 3

Ambush · #21 12-04-2020, 10:37 PM

This is the "easy off" plow mount. Take the the two bolts out and the frame separates from the plow. No spreading or fighting.
And here's a trick for the the home welder. If you don't want weld to run into an area (in my case where the two bars butt) use a copper bar. The weld won't stick to the copper. I use bars salvaged form old industrial electrical panels.

ol'George · #22 12-04-2020, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ambush

This is the "easy off" plow mount. Take the the two bolts out and the frame separates from the plow. No spreading or fighting.
And here's a trick for the the home welder. If you don't want weld to run into an area (in my case where the two bars butt) use a copper bar. The weld won't stick to the copper. I use bars salvaged form old industrial electrical panels.

Carbon rods from edm machines work well also.

longislandcubs · #23 12-05-2020, 12:05 AM

Lookin good..

IHinIN · #24 12-05-2020, 11:45 AM

Nice work. I also try to improve upon original design whenever I repair my Cubs.

Ambush · #25 12-06-2020, 01:03 AM

Today I got the plow attached to the tractor so it was time to tackle the plow lift lever and linkage. Since I wanted a float on this linkage and the ability to lock out the float quickly I started by shortening the lever and and drilled a hole for a pivot point closer to the rocker shaft. Then cut out the companion lever and drilled the first hole where the original hole would have been, that way I still had the original lift position. With the lever in the mid stroke position and the plow two inches off the ground, I scribed the position of the other holes with the old linkage attached to the plow. That would enable me to change holes with very little lift link adjustment. Another hole drilled through both levers accepts a pin for the float lock.

Ambush · #26 12-06-2020, 01:17 AM

The lift rod the PO had made was pretty good, but it was the wrong length for him, and certainly for me, plus it had no adjustment so I cut one end off. I decided to use 5/8" threaded rod and a coupling nut for a little extra strength since I may use some down pressure on the future dozer blade. I cut a piece 5" long and lathed down an inch on one end to fit into the lift rod pipe. Welded that in to the pipe and welded a 1/2" pin to the nut, ran a tap through the nut and spun them together. You can see the lock out pin in the last pic.

Ambush · #27 12-06-2020, 01:24 AM

And finally the plow mounted. Once I'm sure it's all functional and the welding is done , I'll pull it off and paint it. I can see that a storage stand that holds the plow and frame just right would make putting it back on way easier. Have to give that some thought.

finsruskw · #28 12-06-2020, 08:33 AM

Just stand it up in a corner someplace.
Can't take up much less space that that!

longislandcubs · #29 12-06-2020, 11:25 AM

Enjoying seeing the progress..

Ambush · #30 12-13-2020, 12:51 PM

Quick update. This is the finished product. With the float locked I was able to apply enough down pressure to scrape some two inch thick ice out of the gutter after running the tractor over it to crack it up some. Now after all that, I made the decision to build a FEL and all this will became surplus. The bucket will be quick attach and interchange with a dozer blade and a short boom for general lifting.

Also if you're not sure what to do for those missing or wrecked bolts on the footrests, just go to your "might need that some day" bin and get two of the 5/16" toilet tank bolts and cut them off. Nice patina and about the same circa. Brass too, so no seizing.