Bought My 2nd Cub - Page 3

Sam Mac · #21 12-13-2014, 10:58 AM

Do you have all the hardware for the grill, headlights, mounting rings and the hood hinge? If you do I'd probably just stick a new grill on it. That said I'd make sure the tractor doesn't need something major before worrying about cosmetic stuff.

Cannon51 · #22 12-13-2014, 11:14 AM

I do have all the hardware. Like you say that's not a big issue right now. God knows what else I'll find.
Cannon

Sam Mac · #23 12-13-2014, 11:19 AM

As long as you have the hardware the grill I posted the link for should be the one you need. The other one is the retrofit grill that come with the head lights and mounting parts but it's $20 something more. I'm going to replace the grill on the 2182 I'm working and it's not nearly as busted up as the one you have. But it has the halogen bulbs. luckily I have a set of the round style and rings from another grill that I replaced a while ago.

Cannon51 · #24 12-16-2014, 02:10 PM

I drove this thing to the mailbox yesterday and could barely hold it in the driveway. It had about 1/2 turn of play. This morning I removed the cotter pin from the nut on the bottom, turned it in 1/2 turn and met some resistance, backed off to the next cotter pin hole. That removed some of the play, Then I removed the nut and guide pin on the side, turned the pin in another 90 degrees and reinstalled it. That should introduce a new wear point. I found a nut loose on the spindle arm on the left and tightened it. I have it down to a little less than a 1/4 turn of play. that's still bad but better. I removed the tunnel cover to lube the transmission linkage. I didn't see any leaks or broken parts. I discovered that not only is one of the bolts missing that connects the air filter base to the carb but also the piece that has the stud for the filter retaining knob. I getting a pretty good list of missing engine parts.
Cannon

Cannon51 · #25 12-16-2014, 06:56 PM

i went out this afternoon and saw that hydro lever and decided to see if I could do a little better than that. I had some round stock I saved from a scrap LT and started bending on it until I came up with this. Still not factory but looks better to me. It may be a little short, the rubber just clears the dash when it's all the way up.
Cannon

Sam Mac · #26 12-16-2014, 07:14 PM

Take a look underneath and see if the axle stop bolts need to be adjusted. My guess is they need a little TLC.

PaulS · #27 12-16-2014, 09:52 PM

Jack up the front end without lifting on the axle. Then try to move a wheel forward and backward. If the wheel moves that way do as Sam said, tighten the axle stop bolts. When mine is the least bit loose, the tractor on a solid surface seems to have a steering mind of it's own.

Cannon51 · #28 12-17-2014, 12:25 PM

Thanks, I didn't even know those were there. It would move about a 1/4 inch back and forth at the spindle. I tightened them until the front/back movement stopped and it still moved up/down freely. I looked for a spec in the manual on how tight to get them but never saw anything. I drove it out the driveway and it was much better, still some play but not scary. Before I put the battery back in I took a picture of the yellow butt connectors in the wiring, none of the safeties work and I think the fuel solenoid is cutting the engine off. I'm going to get a list of things I need for the engine and post in the "want to buy" section before I get new stuff.
Cannon

Cannon51 · #29 12-22-2014, 12:02 PM

I wanted to check the stater and VR this morning but couldn't keep the tractor running. I thought it was the fuel pump again but I saw a wire sparking under the fuel filter (photo). After I taped it off it ran fine, though still not charging. If I'm checking this correctly I should be getting 30 volts connecting the VOM leads to the two pins in the connector coming from the starer. I am only getting about 10. The DC output at the VR is about 3 volts. Apparently someone has been into this thing and done God knows what. What else can I check before removing the engine and inspecting the stater. The front wheel bearings are loose but I removed the wheels and the spindles look ok. I need to remove the rear end cover, inspect, clean out and change the fluid and filter. I've had a little sticker shock lately on gasket cost, I paid $7 for a Snapper gasket last week and the rear end gasket for this (921-3015 ?) cost around $8 +shipping. Should I get another VR and try it before going after the stater?
Cannon

Sam Mac · #30 12-22-2014, 01:07 PM

You should be getting around 30 volts AC when you connect the leads from your meter to the 2 pins coming from the stator (yellow wires) at full engine RPM and you should be getting 14 +- from the output of the regulator (red wire). If your stator checks out and you find a bad VR you can convert it to take a Kohler VR and save your self some $$$