122 driveshaft

[jbrewer]

STILL waiting on spirol pins....................... donor 123 is back together and working.

[jbrewer]

Does this clutch assembly look right? I'm asking as with this assembled this way, I can still slide the disk around between the plates some. I'd have guessed that it would have been clamped securely between the slotted plate and the other fixed plate. Input appreciated . The description in the manual doesn't give details like the direction of the long snout in the TO bearing (which I have towards the front of the tractor), etc.

Starting from the BACK end of the driveshaft I have


Pin
Heavy washer
Spring
Washer (large diameter)
Throwout bearing (flat side)
Clutch lever
Teaser spring (against snout and of TO bearing
Washer
Slotted plate/pin
Disk
Plate
Pin

[jbrewer]

I figured it out not long after posting.

In a rare burst of cosmetic work, I painted the driveshaft (it's new) and the fit between driveshaft and TO bearing was tight enough to prevent it from sliding easily.

Now fixed and disk feels very solidly clamped when the clutch is released and clutch works smoothly.

It really helps to stand the cub on it's tail while doing this (I have the engine hoist helping to keep it upright if I get too exuberant , but it's The Easy Way.


I have, but did not yet install those anti-rattle springs. Are these worth putting on? Hope not as I didn't


It was a bit like pig wrassling but I got the engine in and the clutch feels really smooth. Hope to get it buttoned up tomorrow. Getting the three drive pins and a new driveshaft and new pilot bushing all lined up and meshed together took some patience. I had the pin out of the clutch pivot to help align the driveshaft/pilot bushing as I lowered the engine. Glad I had the engine on a chain as I'm not sure I could have done this single handedly without it.

[jbrewer]

OK, everything's back in and mostly together.

To recap, I've replaced


Clutch disk
TO bearing
driveshaft
Pilot bushing



and cleaned everything up after an engine swap.



I can get the correct balance between brake and clutch, but when I press the clutch down fully, the driveshaft does not stop spinning when the trans is in neutral. The slotted disk spins.



If I engage the clutch (clunk!) then the driveshaft stops rotating. I made sure to lube the pilot bushing and test fit it with no problems.



If I have the engine off , when I engage the clutch I can see the assemblies separate as they should.


The disk I installed is a solid fiber material, with no steel piece. I did NOT install those spring pins on the new spirols in the drive plate. The new disk is thicker than the old one, which didn't surprise me, as the old one is 55 yrs old but I wonder if this additional thickness is responsible for the clutch not fully releasing? I'll loosen the engine bolts , move the engine a hair and see if lining things up better helps any

[jbrewer]

Clutch now working fine. Whew!

[jbrewer]

Always ratty, now runs great with a smooth clutch and a fresh engine and wiring.





Before:







After:

[jbrewer]

Been a couple of months now, and I have to say that other than Allen's Original , this is the smoothest clutch/driveline cub I've driven . What a difference from the normal junk I drive.


I'm motivated to update the driveline in my O

[DeltaCub]

The 122 is a wonderful model. This model was very popular in my area for many years. My first tractor I "rebuilt" was a 122. It was very strong and reliable, not to mention, educational. Oftentimes, my dad would use this tractor instead of his 1000 to move a giant flatbed trailer he had at the time. Two things that were improved upon with subsequent models was the "Quick Attach" set up (and no more pin on deck nonsense) and a deep dish style steering wheel (Quick turns while wearing gloves always knocked the throttle back). I not sure if any of the old pictures from 1979-1980 have survived. I'm glad you are having fun with the tractor!