Are all cyl heads aluminum?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by CubbyRI

Finally found an example of workholding for one of these heads in a milling machine. Clamped in the vice by the sides. And he's using an end mill not a fly cutter. Maybe I can do this...

https://youtu.be/QB7wkykHRIA

That video is too funny, maybe use a snag grinder, or better still, drag it back and forth on the cement driveway!
Yep, real precision right there.
oh, and use JB weld instead of a head gasket

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by ironman

Looks to me, like a good way to ruin a perfectly good head.

how so? this is a basic machining operation. as long as the part is indicated flat and clamped sufficiently, should be able to mill a few thousandths off and it will be flat...

[ol'George]

Possibly you didn't notice they were using a drill press,
and making multiple passes with an end mill instead of a fly cutter.
But understood, most people are not machinists.
I just hate to see examples of how not to do things, which lead to misinformation or folks to mess up things, while meaning well.
Now hold my beer and watch this:

[Cubcadet_107]

My take on it is that it'll probably be almost impossible to get the head perfectly level just in a vice like that. And once you're actually doing it, it's always possible that the head moves a bit if you move too fast, you don't realize that it moved and keep going, and then your head has a slope to it.

I personally would stick to the sandpaper on a flat surface method. As long as you do it right there's pretty much no chance of having something go wrong.

[Ambush]

CubbyRI, not trying to be a smart Alec, but if you have a Bridgeport milling machine, I'd spend some time fixing that up to usable and you'll open up a ton of possibilities. What model? Or sell it, as they are in demand, and buy a decent sized King, Craftex or similar.

[finsruskw]

Cast iron top, being a milled surface, such as a decent table saw is another option.

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by Ambush

CubbyRI, not trying to be a smart Alec, but if you have a Bridgeport milling machine, I'd spend some time fixing that up to usable and you'll open up a ton of possibilities. What model? Or sell it, as they are in demand, and buy a decent sized King, Craftex or similar.

Series 1 J head. I installed a VFD. Its actually not terrible but I havent really gone through it to evaluate it. I did graduate a machinist school 3 years ago, but that just teaches the basics. Oh and since I built the deck, assembled the BP on it, then built the walls and roof, looks like I'm stuck with this one! The top cam clutch is wonky, that should be addressed first. I've made basic things on it, just nothing all that precise yet.

George, why is an end mill different for this than a fly cutter?

[Ambush]

That Bridgeport is a lot of machine for a home shop! I'd be putting some of my time into it and some money into some basic tooling. Between that, a 10X30 lathe, cheap hydraulic press and a welder, the possibilities are endless.

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by Ambush

That Bridgeport is a lot of machine for a home shop! I'd be putting some of my time into it and some money into some basic tooling. Between that, a 10X30 lathe, cheap hydraulic press and a welder, the possibilities are endless.

Have end mills set, collets, basic metrology stuff. Slowly getting there

Already have the lathe - SB heavy 10 in good shape. Made a boat prop shaft with taper, companion flange, and a few other things on it. Also has a VFD. Sweet machine.

https://youtu.be/79PmkeLpBmw


Have stick welder as well. Not the best results yet but with practice! Adding a rectifier soon for DC option. no press other than an arbor press I used for broaching keyways.

be great to find a Mig welder but even used they are really pricey. Out of my budget for now (unless I want to use it for a pillow when sleeping in the shop)

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by CubbyRI

Series 1 J head. I installed a VFD. Its actually not terrible but I havent really gone through it to evaluate it. I did graduate a machinist school 3 years ago, but that just teaches the basics. Oh and since I built the deck, assembled the BP on it, then built the walls and roof, looks like I'm stuck with this one! The top cam clutch is wonky, that should be addressed first. I've made basic things on it, just nothing all that precise yet.

George, why is an end mill different for this than a fly cutter?

A fly cutter can take a full width cut across the Cylinder head, thus eliminating any variation from multiple passes using an end mill.
(and a endmill wears,causing more variation)
Even after the head of the mill is trammed, one gets variations of the cut surface, not much, but it is there.
Using a surface plate with sandpaper, brings it very close to no variation.
Now as far as the milled surface, there is actually a specification for the
"roughness" using a "profilometer" to measure it.
Too much roughness and the gasket can leak, to little and the gasket cannot grab the surface and can "blow out"----just like having to sand paint so the top coat can grip the surface it is applied on.
For these engines we work on, a lapped head using sandpaper, with a surface plate or glass, is sufficient for a good seal.
sorry for the long winded explination.