repower - Page 3

ol'George · #21 02-23-2010, 03:51 PM

Matt is correct, on the gasket set,
but on my M-18 it requires sealer instead of gaskets other than the cylinder heads/intake/exhaust.
You don't want to use a gasket set where it is designed for sealer.
And make sure you retorque the head gaskets after it is fully warmed up. Other wise you will be replacing the gaskets again. BTDT!!
Leave the head shrouding off and warm it up and retorque, you will be amazed at how loose they have become.

Matt G. · #22 02-23-2010, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

Matt is correct, on the gasket set,
but on my M-18 it requires sealer instead of gaskets other than the cylinder heads/intake/exhaust.
You don't want to use a gasket set where it is designed for sealer.

This is why it's important to order the correct gasket set and take note of where gasket sealer is used when disassembling the engine. I think the switchover to gasket sealer occurred near the end of the KT-17 production or slightly after the beginning of M18 production.

jbollis · #23 02-23-2010, 04:55 PM

This place has piston/ring kits that are standard, +.003, +.010 ,+.020, and +.030.

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeen...sort=1a&page=2

ol'George · #24 02-23-2010, 05:28 PM

I've used these folks,
good prices and no complaints

rwire125 · #25 02-24-2010, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbollis

This place has piston/ring kits that are standard, +.003, +.010 ,+.020, and +.030.

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeen...sort=1a&page=2

yup ive search for kohler pistons and opeies came up, also upon disasembly i did note the sealer used insted of a base gasket, ive not seen of after mkt gasket sets? and i did find a guy north of me that was recomended by two dealers and his prices wher pretty good copared to the guys in the big city, 75 to bore set and install the rings and 50 to grind the valves, I had a late night at work 2nd shift and didnt get home till 4am so im having a hard time getting out to the garage to get pictures of the jug i cleaned up last night but it looks like the piston scuffed the side wall and 1 scratch is a bit deeper than org thought but forsure will get some pictures of it, now ive had my bowel of oatmeal and think im going back to bed lol need my beauty sleep its heck to get old and still keep up with the yung pups all night

oh and do you guys that funky dog leg wrench when ya torq the jugs bach on? cant get a strait shot at it to torq or use a crows foot?

ol'George · #26 02-24-2010, 12:32 PM

I used an open/box as I didn't have a dog leg wrench, to tighten jugs to block.
After all these years turning wrenches, proper tightness is second nature.
but I can't over stress the need to re torque the heads properly after they have heated up to operating temp. I didn't do that the first time, and had to replace the head gaskets, then I re torqued after hot and that worked with no problems.
I did both times use Stens after mkt. gaskets, not Kohler

rwire125 · #27 02-25-2010, 03:45 AM

the scratches look worse in the picture than they really are and the piston shows the scuff area, and by reading my last post i must have been out of it lol

#28 02-25-2010, 09:05 AM

Well I already have a ridge reamer, a hone, and a ring compressor/sleeve. I'd go the $50 route and put her back together, just my opinion.

Either spend the $600 and get her done right or go with what you got.

Bore and hone and valves and crank turn, gaskets, new rods and pistons and rings, new governor, etc....without pricing it...my guess is around $600 and you do the work.

Bear in mind also these do have a reputation for losing a governor and when they go they take the whole motor with it.

$50.

Scott

ol'George · #29 02-25-2010, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwire125

the scratches look worse in the picture than they really are and the piston shows the scuff area, and by reading my last post i must have been out of it lol

I go along with the re ring and run it theory,
I'd deglaze the bore, clean up the piston, and put in after mkt. Std. rings.
It looks like the P.O. abused the oil change interval, and the worn rings allowed carbon to build up and scratched the bore/piston.
Worst thing can happen is it will use a bit of oil on that hole, I've seen/used much worse.
You will not have that much ($$) in it going this route, and @ a later time if you want to go all out, you haven't lost that much.
I'd look @ the valves just to see what they look like as you have it on the bench.

My understanding is:
You are going to put this in as a repower and you will have incidental/additional expenses.
after you get it running and use it some, you will get a better idea what your long term plans might be.
This is just what I'd do, others will have their views.
Luck!

rwire125 · #30 02-25-2010, 11:12 AM

ok so its sounds like the rering is the way to go, what is the proper way to deglaze the cyclinder? and then ill just lap the valves and set the proper clearence get some new gaskets and was thinking is it advisable to or ealsy doable to put in new front seal or rear as long as i have the engine out? thanks for your input on this guys,how big can the ridge at the top of the bore be BF i need to consider a ridge reamer? i dont have a ridge reamer or a hone for that matter and in the past ive just sliped the jugs over the rings compresing each one as i go on motorcycles