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  #21  
Old 12-16-2015, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
I can't speak to his experience but I can tell you that when you push the clutch down it pushes the driveshaft back against the rearend and that extra bit of friction could be why it moved when you pushed the clutch down a bit. I'd go pull the cover and start the tractor and try to move the tractor, keep a good eye on the shaft going into the trans to see if its spinning, its usually the rear most pin that breaks first and if you replace one you better replace both.
This is exactly what I did. I was mowing and the tractor just stopped moving forward. I couldn't understand why but wjen I pushed on the clutch to put her in neutral she jerked forward. Trial and error taught that if I keep my foot on the clutch with slight pressure (riding the clutch) I can get it back to the garage. Hope this helps
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  #22  
Old 12-16-2015, 04:01 PM
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Those are extra strength 1/4" X 1 1/2" who may work ($5.56 for 10) or is it to much strong compare to steel heat treated one?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a419/=109nlm6
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #23  
Old 12-16-2015, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Those are extra strength 1/4" X 1 1/2" who may work ($5.56 for 10) or is it to much strong compare to steel heat treated one?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a419/=109nlm6
Call in the order Thursday and maybe you'll have the pins for the weekend if not Monday! Tuesday at worst> McMaster Carr is that good! I get all my stuff the next day.
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  #24  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:01 PM
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DO NOT put a put a split roll pin in the hole or you will need to replace it again before you get to the end of the driveway.
Oooops. Too late! I already plowed the driveway.


Quote:
The bad part about this is going to be getting the old pin out. You must either line the shaft and collar back up and try to drive the pin out (almost impossible to do) or remove the coupler and drive the three pieces out one at a time.
I got it lined up and drove the old one halfway out, then drove the new one in pushing out the other half.


Quote:
DO NOT BEAT ON THE PINS WITHOUT SUPPORTING THE COUPLER FROM UNDERNEATH!
That was timely advice...but a bit too late! I did see it in time to support it as I drove the new one in though. The old one was also a rolled pin.


Quote:
Good luck.
Thanks, I'll need it. I did a double roll pin trick as mentioned above, so hopefully I'll get at least another 5 years out of it before I have to do it again the right way.
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  #25  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:54 PM
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I may be a little late, but "It isn't the clutch.".

Glad you are back in action. Wow, as I read the thread, I noticed a lot of great advice from people in the know. Aren't we lucky to have such knowledgeable fellas in the forum.

Happy Cubbin',

Cub Cadet 123
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  #26  
Old 12-17-2015, 06:31 AM
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Wow, as I read the thread, I noticed a lot of great advice from people in the know. Aren't we lucky to have such knowledgeable fellas in the forum.
That's why I pay a contribution to this forum!

....So Roland can pay them a cold one...Wen he don't spend all on lotteries!
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #27  
Old 12-17-2015, 08:26 AM
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That's why I pay a contribution to this forum!

....So Roland can pay them a cold one...Wen he don't spend all on lotteries!
My wifes parents like to play the poor me game all the time meanwhile they have a stack of $10 and $20 lottery tickets that's about 3ft high and there all losers, I don't know how much wasted money is there but it has to be several thousand dollars.
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  #28  
Old 12-17-2015, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Those are extra strength 1/4" X 1 1/2" who may work ($5.56 for 10) or is it to much strong compare to steel heat treated one?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a419/=109nlm6
Question... The Mil-Spec slotted pins are rated about the same, and you get twice as many for the same price. Would these work as well, or because the others are spiral wound, they are less prone to failure?

Edit: My bad... I was reading the price backwards... I thought it was 5 for $10 for the spiral rolled... My goof.
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  #29  
Old 12-17-2015, 10:58 AM
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Question... The Mil-Spec slotted pins are rated about the same, and you get twice as many for the same price. Would these work as well, or because the others are spiral wound, they are less prone to failure?

Spirol (spiral wound) stronger and take the pulse of the crank better. All other styles don't hold up.
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  #30  
Old 12-17-2015, 11:07 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123 View Post
I may be a little late, but "It isn't the clutch.".

That's awesome! Thanks!

There is a deep well of knowledge here that never fails to help incompetent "mechanics" such as myself get back on track.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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