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  #21  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:58 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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true, and I don't trust most pullers, but don is 62 and been a mechanic since I could remember. Use to work with my dad when I was a kid. So if he says it will work I'll trust him.They have no more of a chance of coming out than any other engine bolt. Red locktite.
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  #22  
Old 05-03-2015, 12:10 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam View Post
I've heard a lot of people who threaten to make a removable tunnel Narrow Frame, don't ever remember seeing one though.
Just seems like it would make things a lot easier. I'm not concerned about keeping this one original.
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  #23  
Old 05-03-2015, 12:14 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightow1 View Post
They have no more of a chance of coming out than any other engine bolt. Red locktite.
For your sake I hope not. I don't agree.....

Locktite will bond to a bolt under tension. It doesn't hold well for a loose fit bolt. A tight bolt has less chance of coming out.... all the rest of the bolts in the engine have been tightened down, so no.... the plugs have a far greater chance of coming loose as you can't tighten them.


Pipe plug would have been better. The threads are tapered and you can get them tight.
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  #24  
Old 05-03-2015, 02:00 AM
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zippy1 zippy1 is offline
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Did the tunnel on my 100. Drilled out the welds, then welded in bolts on the cover, and drilled holes in the frame.
Attached with lock washers and nuts, and no one would be the wiser, unless you crawled under the tractor....
I had to separate the two, because there was so much rust in-between.
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  #25  
Old 05-03-2015, 02:14 AM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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I left the pins in my k321 after I busted up the balance gears. Those needle bearings and chunks of iron are a pain in the you know what to get cleaned out. I wasn't thinking or I would have put a shop towel and magnet in there when I removed them. It ran alright all summer last year and have it as a spare engine, or as a replacement for another cub someday!
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  #26  
Old 05-03-2015, 02:40 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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After I finished with everything flushed it out with diesel the lnside is spotless. After you soda blast you have to wash it off. The soda leaves a protective coating, which is great if you are not going to paint immediately. Unlike other media that rust almost instantly. once the engine is finished I might have to use the new engine stand to test everything out. Received my paint guns today, cant wait to have the ability to do a real paint job.
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  #27  
Old 05-03-2015, 02:43 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
Did the tunnel on my 100. Drilled out the welds, then welded in bolts on the cover, and drilled holes in the frame.
Attached with lock washers and nuts, and no one would be the wiser, unless you crawled under the tractor....
I had to separate the two, because there was so much rust in-between.

I was thinking of leaving the front part of the cover, and cutting the back side like you would have on a wide frame. I would still remove the whole think but bolt both halves separately. I think I'm explaining that right.
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  #28  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:48 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightow1 View Post
Just seems like it would make things a lot easier. I'm not concerned about keeping this one original.
I don't disagree, fwiw I have a 124 tucked away that I am hoping to make into a "bolt off tunnel" some day. I've just never seen one that has been done.
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  #29  
Old 05-03-2015, 11:20 PM
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2015, 09:07 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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So got the tunnel cover cut and measurements finished. Just need to separate the cover and add the mounting brackets. Then add a little strength to the center. Should turn out good.
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