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#21
04-13-2011, 08:17 AM
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I was bored this morning so here you go,
Here is some information for you from our libraries: Print these out and make your own manuals Hydro filter cross reference list: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12 FAQ: http://cubfaq.com/questions.html http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7 Ignition: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26 How to time your engine: http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf 1450 Service Manual: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%...e%20Manual.pdf Engine Service Manual: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinec...df/tp_2379.pdf Owners Manual: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/QL%20Operators%20Manual.pdf Engine Cradle Mod, A must do: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4630 Charging System: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=368 Wiring diagrams: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP 
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#23
04-13-2011, 08:45 AM
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LOL, dang right I would love another Red one.. Say a 982??!!! lol.. It's due to all the water standing in my yard that I am bored... Sighs... Dang weather.. I'll never get my garden disc'd up..
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#24
04-13-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Tractor 1 also has a bracket on the rear end up top that has a notch on each side, I assume for some kind of implement attachment point. One other difference between tractor 1 and 2, tractor 1 has a little lever on the center cover between your legs that pushes some valves on the rear end for towing depending on how you flip the lever. Tractor two has a plain cover with no holes in it and no such lever. Tractor two also seemed to not be in neutral although the stick on the dash was where it should be for neutral, it was making some gear like noises when being moved. That is a great story about him picking up a cub by the steering wheel. I made sure not to hand over all of the cash until both were on my side of this guy's fence without any damage though, I was a little wary of him damaging something. Also, my friend who helped hopped up on the hood of one of the cubs while we were moving them and I initially cringed, but it did not phase the cub one bit. Quote:
AWESOME post thank you so much for this info! I started searching around last night and ended up falling asleep here at my desk, I guess all the fresh air and excitement got to me. I will probably pick up printed manuals at some point but right now this info is exactly what I need to get underway! Thank you so much, if you are ever in NW Indiana and in need of a cold beverage do not hesitate to contact me!
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#25
04-13-2011, 11:28 AM
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Hope this helps some:
Some of the Quitelines had external brakes and some had an internal brake. You happen to have one of each. There are pro's and con's for each but not many. The fact your 1450 is a hydro, you will use the brakes very little if any at all. The only time I use mine is for a parking brake when I haul it, or if it is sitting on a bit of an incline. The bracket is probably correct for an implement attachment but would need to see a pic to be sure. The tractor that has a lever on the tunnel cover means you have to use that in order to move the tractor around. It has manual hydro release valves. The tractor without the lever has automatic released valves. After about 10 or 15 minutes of sitting you can push that tractor around. When you remove the tunnel covers you will see the difference in the valves. Manuals have a small nipple that is pushed down to bypass the valves. The automatic's have flat topped valves.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#26
04-13-2011, 02:15 PM
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thank you again for your shared knowledge, I appreciate your input. I know a lot of this has been asked before, I'm a long time member of some automotive forums and I know the redundant new guy questions get old after a while. I try not to ask questions unless I can't find answers on my own.
From the Kohler PDF you posted I was able to look up my serials and put a date to the engines I have. 7420012 is a 1976 and 9278949 is a 1978 I was hoping the first two numbers were the production year and I had a 1992 replacement on hand but I figured that was asking too much.  I am guessing these are original to their respective tractors though, the dates seem to be in line with 1450 production dates. I've had my head buried in manuals all day, this is great. thanks again OCC forums!
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#27
04-13-2011, 09:34 PM
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my 1450 project
if my information is correct, your 1978 tractor should have the steering wheel of the 82 series. your1976 1450 which has 3/4 front spindles should have the steering wheel like the 1 8/9 series.
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#28
04-14-2011, 12:29 AM
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That makes it even better if it is stock, it's in great shape other than the suicide knob I plan on removing.
 From here out I will try to refer to these by their year to make things less confusing. I pushed the 1978 over to the garage doorway and took the tunnel cover off. This one turns over by hand at the drive shaft, significantly easier than the 1976. Pulled the spark plug, shot a good bit of WD-40 in the cylinder. Pulled the dipstick a few minutes later and could faintly smell WD40 on it, not exactly what I was looking to find but not totally unexpected considering the amount of oil soot near the exhaust on this thing. If she runs, she is gonna smoke.  I pulled the air filter housing off and found what is wrong with my choke linkage, the flap is stuck at the carb and a little stiff in the linkage near the engine. That is an easy fix. I can only imagine what is going on in the float bowls of these carbs right now though. I think I got too excited about the fact that the '78 had keys. I put a battery in it and turned said keys, nothing. I thought the battery was dead so I put it on the charger. Then it dawned on me there are no fuses in the thing. I imagined that was part of the problem so I read the manual some more and found the PTO has a safety circuit. I am hoping it will crank over with the starter if I put a PTO fuse in it tomorrow. A man can hope. I found it interesting there appears to only be one wire going to each fuse holder too, will look into that when there is more daylight as well. I put the 78 in the garage and called it a day, I am sleepy.  Don't mind that MTD in there with the blue stripe on the hood in the mix. It tries to be a real tractor.
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#29
04-14-2011, 01:41 PM
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quick lunch break update. put a fuse in the PTO circuit but the '78 is still playing dead electrically. I am thinking the ignition switch is bad at this point. I will pull out my multimeter later and see what I can find out.
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#30
04-14-2011, 02:50 PM
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I'm getting power up to the starter solenoid on one of the larger terminals. There is no power coming to the solenoid's small terminal when the ignition switch is in the crank position. Also nothing is happening when I jump the solenoid terminals together. I was hoping that old trick would crank her over.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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