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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #21  
Old 10-15-2023, 09:05 PM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Location: Three Forks, MT
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I noticed when the cylinder got real bad I had alot of turn in the
wheel before it would even begin to move the cylinder in or out. That
cylinder should respond with very little movement in the wheel.
I was also able to turn the wheel some with the tractor not even running.
Steering wheel should be quite hard to turn unless the tractor is running.

I believe the tie rod nut tightens to the right against the tie rod end.

Ken
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  #22  
Old 10-16-2023, 11:01 AM
Ian181 Ian181 is offline
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Location: PA
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West, thanks for the info, I'll check the cylinder for the play you mentioned.
I actually strained my shoulder trying to get that jam nut loose, it didn't give either direction I tried. I'll try it again after I spray it with some Deep Creep.
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  #23  
Old 10-16-2023, 05:18 PM
Ian181 Ian181 is offline
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I checked the cylinder and it's not too bad. I have a little play in the steering wheel, but most of it was coming from that steering arm the cylinder hooks to. I moved the bolt/cylinder to the other hole in the arm, might've lost a little turning radius, but it definitely helped. I tightened up the front axle too, way too much front/back play, and also side to side play from the stop blocks. After getting everything adjusted it seems much better, no constant steering adjustments.

Thanks everyone for all your help, I know I can always count on the knowledgeable people here.
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  #24  
Old 10-16-2023, 08:34 PM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Good to hear, glad you're on the road.

Ken
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  #25  
Old 10-23-2023, 11:12 AM
Rex B Rex B is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian181 View Post
How do you tell if the cylinder is bad?

I did notice that this part (see pic) has some play in the mounting hole where the bolt goes through, would this explain part of it?
I would recommend you replace that bolt with the correct type. You don't want those threads bearing against the ID of that hole. It needs a grade 8 bolt with a smooth shoulder inside the hole. You may have to get one a bit longer and shim it with washers (also grade 8).
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  #26  
Old 10-23-2023, 08:34 PM
Ian181 Ian181 is offline
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I did see that, thanks Rex. I'll probably drill out and bush the hole, it's already a little egg-shaped. I hate when people don't use the proper hardware, does nothing but create future problems.
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  #27  
Old 10-27-2023, 08:24 PM
Rex B Rex B is offline
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Default new cylinders

OK guys, new cylinders arrived today from customcylindersint.com.
One for the 2084, one for the 1864.
I'm going to change them out this weekend.

Anything I need to know beyond turning the wrenches?

Bleeding the air out of the lines?

I replaced the Heim joints recently.
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2023, 09:17 PM
Ian181 Ian181 is offline
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Rex, got that arm drilled, bushed, and installed with the correct shoulder bolt. It tightened everything up nicely, plusbI made some final tweaks on the axle stops too.

Thanks everyone for your help!
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  #29  
Old 10-28-2023, 12:18 AM
Rex B Rex B is offline
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Excellent Ian!

I’m just about to start that process on both mine
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  #30  
Old 10-28-2023, 11:42 AM
Ian181 Ian181 is offline
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I wish you luck Rex. I just took my niece's 1862 back to her and retrieved my 1440 I let her use in the meantime. I noticed my 1440 has a lot of play in the steering so I'm pretty sure the bearing needs tightened at the bottom of the column. I really could've swore I did that not too long ago so maybe something's wearing out. I have to take the deck and slave off to put my 451 snouwblower back on anyway so It'll be easier to access anyway.
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