clutch removal

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by fer100

THANK YOU ALL, after getting the p b blaster soaking pin for about 4 hours and repeating this step about 6 times then hitting it with heat (propane tourch) 3 times the pin finally came out. I feel like I just climbed mount everest. Now on to the next step getting engine loose and moved so i can take clutch out. Again Guys thanks for all your help. Enclosed a picture of my little friend

Keep it in your pocket as a reminder... You will get it done. BTW I know that feeling and it keeps me going. - Peace -

[clint]

It depends on what area your in, how bad you want/need, and many other things as to what stuff is worth. If your not careful you will have more money in used parts than you originally paid for overall sound cub cadet. I would still scan ebay for a driveshaft before I done anything, also find out what all will work in your cub before you start.

Clint

[Merk]

Here is a drawing of a narrow frame clutch assembly:

Here are the areas I check out:
1. The area where the throw out bearing(3) rides needs to be smooth. The driveshaft(1) should be replaced if the driveshaft has any groves in it. They are easy to make if you have a drill press.
Here is a good example of a driveshaft that needs replaced:

2. The clutch drive plates(5 and 7)must be trued in a lathe.
before:

after trued on a lathe:



3. The clutch disk(6) needs to be replaced. You can buy a replacement disk from Cub Cadet. My Son's 86 on steroids has a kevlar/fiberglass composite clutch disc in it. The motor in the 86 is making over 20 horsepower. The clutch disk seams to hold better than the Cub Cadet brand disk so far. Summer tug of wars and fall plow days will be a good test. The disk was purchase from Midwest Super Cub
http://www.midwestsupercub.net/clutches.htm
Vogal Manufacturing
http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/st...ain_page=index
has a good clutch disk too.
4. Inspect the throwout bearing(3)-replace as needed.
5. Inspect teaser spring(4)-replace as needed. I usually install a new on every clutch I do.
6. Inspect the clutch bracket(9) for wear-you can rebuild or replace as needed. I've done both.
7. Inspect the clutch release lever(10)-I have repaired the top holes where the pin goes through. The clutch release lever is replaced if there is any wear around the throwout bearing area.
8. Check the pin that goes between the clutch bracket and clutch release lever for wear. Replace as needed.
9. Clutch Driver(8) Check the drive pins and bushing in the clutch driver for wear. Replace as needed. I replace the pins and bushing when I rebuild a clutch.
10. I replace all the 1/4 X 1 1/2 spiroid pins in the driveshaft.

Pins and bushing are cheap from McMaster-Carr.

[Matt G.]

Merk has some great advice there...I've also rebuilt several clutches, and it only costs about $130. I'd stay away from used ebay clutches...how will you know they are any better than what you have. A new main spring is less than $20...replace it while you're in there. They get weak over time. New friction disc, pilot bushing, teaser spring, main spring, and spirol pins are a must. You'll most likely have to replace the throwout bearing as well. The driveshaft is easy to make with a drill press, as Merk said.

[fer100]

Merk, Thanks for the reply. You answered my Question and I have a few more. , I will need A new Shaft to much wear, New release level, new throw out bear, teaser spring, clutch disc, your before after shots of pressure plates are they the same plates or new. I don't have a lathe where could I get that done to the old ones. If i get new do i still have to lathe them? How do you tell if a clutch spring is good you don't say anything about that. And I will replace all spiral pins. In you picture below the clutch spring by the washer what is that part it's not showed in the clutch picture. I will go over the clutch driver in the morning but it looked tight when i removed the engine.

[Matt G.]

I can probably answer some of that for you. Used pressure plates need to be trued up. New ones do not. You could weld up the wear on the release lever and grind it smooth. If the clutch spring is rusty and/or pitted (and it will be) replace it. It's cheap and you don't want to go back in there again.

[fer100]

I went on the midwest site they have a complete clutch assemby for 265.00 want is you thoughts on that? That way all I would have to do see take it out of the box and put it in

[Matt G.]

It's your money and you can do what you want. But you can do it cheaper yourself.

Several people on here have lathes...perhaps you could get one of them to turn your pressure plates for you?

[Merk]

The clutch drive plates are a used set I trued on a lathe. The clutch is in this Cub

I look for broken clutch spring. I'm like Matt....I replace both springs when I rebuild a clutch.
The driveshaft in my 100 is a cold roll steel that was purchase local hardware store.

For those who don't have the equipment to rebuild a clutch Brian Miller can help you out. Here is a link to his site:
*************************************************
I rebuild clutches too if anyone is interrested. My email address is in my profile.

The clutch that Midwest has is a pulling clutch. That one is overkill for any Cub under 12-14 horsepower.