1862 won't start, i need some help

[blue83ranger]

I finally got around to checking the valve clearances and both exhaust valves were to tight. So i took the heads off and both had alot of loose bolts and on one exhaust valve i could see black on the seat where it wasn't sealing. So i ground the valves and trued up the seats and got the right clearances and put on new head gaskets and torqued them down. It ran better and started quicker but this morning i tried to start it and it wouldn't. So i still didn't find the problem. I poured a little bit of gas in the carb and it didn't fire at all. So i checked the spark again and it is blue but it's sometimes hard to see. So from a spark stand point what all should i check out? It has a brand new coil with the proper spacing and new plugs.

[aagitch]

Do you maybe have a bad ground not allowing it to get a good spark? Just a thought. It seems like alot of electrical related problems with these older cubs is bad connections etc...

[Matt G.]

I would have the magneto spacing on the tight end of the range. Are your new plugs any good? Sometimes you get a new one that's bad.

aagitch may be onto something as well...the cyclops tractors are notorious for electrical issues.

[blue83ranger]

I should be able to find some good used plugs around here i could try. And something else about this seems weird. I can choke it and it won't fire and i can smell gas and the plugs are completely dry. And even if i spray carb cleaner or pour some gas in the carb and try it, it doesn't fire at all and the plugs are completely dry. I also rechecked the compression, and it's the same. I also was told this engine has an automatic compression release but i never looked it up to be sure, so, is there one? and do they ever go bad and stay on? and i did find a ground wire for the ignition switch that was corroded off, but it didn't help anything after it was fixed. I'll look over the other grounds.

[Matt G.]

There is no compression release on these engines.

[esarvey]

Back to basics, Gas/air, Spark, compression, . Even if you, did all that , head valve stuff, a slightly bent can stick, aloose guide can give fits, a cracked piston, will show up in leak down. You've done a supper job so far don't let that gremlin git U down!!!

[blue83ranger]

I took the plugs out and turned the motor over by hand and i can see the valves open and close all the way. and I basically took the motor out to check the flywheel key and it's not sheared. The magnet on the flywheel was a bit rusty, not to bad though. So i cleaned it up. and i think i'm going to try to start it with the driveshaft unhooked just to see if maybe the transmission is holding the motor back at all. Other than that i'm out of ideas, if anyone has any other ideas let me know and thanks for the help.

[FrankF3]

Couple of things.... Since this has a magneto ignition, usually you supply a ground to kill the engine. Do you think it's possible that you may have a stray ground that's intermittently stopping the engine or preventing it from starting now? Also, Young Enthusiest brought up a good point on timing. In looking through the link that John Schutte provided for the engine, I looked in the electrical section. IF this engine is equipped with the 'Smart Spark' feature, then it would also include an electronic spark advance module. Who knows if that is working properly.

[Donny Curtis]

I was having the same problem on a 25hp Kohler command, Had to take the Advance module off of it, works great now.

[JOHN SCHUTTE]

The one item that has me baffled is the dry spark plug. I would check for an obstruction in the intake. You have fuel, spark (a weak one), and compression...........it should at least try to hit.