1000 throw out bearing - which is correct?

[Merk]

Originally Posted by olds45512

There's no link to what I did but I can tell you what I did. The third pin from the front of the driveshaft is the one that the spring rests against, I measured the difference between the short bearing and long bearing and drilled the third hole that much further to the rear of the driveshaft. Doing so on your current driveshaft will mean more holes in the shaft which will make it weak so when I did it I bought a new driveshaft but had them not drill the third hole, measure the distance from the front of the shaft to the third pin on the original shaft and then add the difference between the two bearings and that will tell you where you need to drill the hole.

I used split collars instead of a pin.

I would not drill the drive shaft.
You create a weak point by drilling the driveshaft.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by Merk

I used split collars instead of a pin.

I would not drill the drive shaft.
You create a weak point by drilling the driveshaft.

Yea but the original lasted 40 years so unless it's a pulling tractor I doubt there'd be an issue.

[Merk]

If you are installing a new driveshaft I would use the IH-106386-C91 or 703-0600 bearing. The one piece has better support in that area of the driveshaft. I would measure the old 2 piece and the 1 piece throw out bearing. Them I would move the rear stop to make up the difference. I would put a thin washer-spacer between the throw out/spacer and the compression spring.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Yea but the original lasted 40 years so unless it's a pulling tractor I doubt there'd be an issue.

Split collars are cheap insurance and make the job easier the next time it has to come apart.

[Merk]

Here is a clutch rebuild topic that shows the split collars being used.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33653

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Yea but the original lasted 40 years so unless it's a pulling tractor I doubt there'd be an issue.

+1 I'm not worried about the holes in the driveshaft. The original from my tractor is still in one piece.

I have known the history of this tractor most of it's life. The T/O bearing was original from 1977 and looked like it. It functioned perfectly until it locked up sometime when my brother had it between ~2009 and 2014.

I am not sure if I expect to get 30+ years out of the replacement T/O bearing. Things aren't made like they used to be and if I get a Chinese made part this is especially true. That being said I may rebuild the clutch again sometime. I think it would be more likely that one of my sons will do it next time.

I'm not worried about the difficulty of rebuilding the clutch if the bearing fails. Yesterday I decided to take a look at it and had the driveshaft/clutch assembly out of the tractor in about 30 minutes. I stripped it down with a vice, hammer and punch in about as much time. I work on all kinds of machinery and find Cub Cadets easy to work on. I have two Quietlines so if one is down I can still get work done around the house.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Bob95065

I think I know what i am going to do.

The original design used the standard bearing (941-3056) and the lubricating bushing. It looks like this design has been superseded with the integrated bushing and bearing (703-0600) and replaces both. I'll go with it and see how it compares to the original parts.

Jeff, if you are interested I will take measurements and pictures of the original bushing and send them to you. I am a mechanical engineer and I work in our company's metrology department. I know how to do reverse engineering. Because we make everything here out of titanium and aluminum around here I am not as well versed in other materials so i wasn't sure what to make the bushing out of.

My brother had the 1000 for a few years before I got it back. He ran it with a locked up T/O bearing for who knows how long. Mercifully the rod from the rockshaft to the throwout lever broke and he stopped using it. I threw it together with spare parts I had laying around but it was never right. The hanger bracket and pin show a lot of wear. Now I am fixing it right. I hope I get another 40 years of service out of it.

Get me measurements and what holes in the driveshaft. Gear drive driveshafts get five holes ( four for creeper length ) so if you want any deleted, let me know.

[Yosemite Sam]

The last few T/O bearings that I got from Cub Cadet were a Chinese made bearing. I was very disappointed with Cub Cadet...

[mickb72]

Kudo's to using those washers as Merc said. Mike