rebuild kit

[cubby102]

iirc it simulates the head being bolted to the block. Naturally since the bore is a hollow tube it distorts a tiny bit when everything is bolted down so with the torque plate on its distorted and when you bore/hone it it will be a little straighter. At least that's the way it was described to me

[Quagmire]

I got a used cam and lifters off ebay. One difference is there is no band around the top of the lifters like the old ones had. I don't see any other difference and the valve spring seat fits over them. The cam is like new but the lifters are mixed up. They didn't mark which one goes on which lobe, is that going to be a problem ? I know there isn't a whole lot of spring psi so it might not matter ? These lifters have an adjuster that threads in and out they have a pretty good wear pattern worn into them from the valve tips. Can I just regrind them flat in my valve grinder ? They will fit into the valve tip grinder so I don't see why it wouldn't work ? The only thing that bothers me is weather or not the heat treating would be effected or if it matter ? If they don't cost much I could replace them but I don't know where to get them ? For all the more I payed for the cam and lifters I could just replace them as well as the lifters if they don't cost all that much.

[ol'George]

yes you can grind them in your "V" block that you would normally use for the valve stems, just use the same caution to not get them hot as they are heat treated.
If they just need minor touch up, I see no problem,and if
there is no noticeable wear on the part that rides on the cam I wouldn't worry about mixing them on the lobes.
Like you say, the spring pressure ain't like a BB chevy running high spring pressure.

[Quagmire]

Originally Posted by ol'George

yes you can grind them in your "V" block that you would normally use for the valve stems, just use the same caution to not get them hot as they are heat treated.
If they just need minor touch up, I see no problem,and if
there is no noticeable wear on the part that rides on the cam I wouldn't worry about mixing them on the lobes.
Like you say, the spring pressure ain't like a BB chevy running high spring pressure.

Thanks. Does anybody make a set of molly faced piston rings for this motor ? The rebuild kit has chrome rings. I don't think model T technology is a good thing for this motor.

[Merk]

by Quagmire
Does anybody make a set of molly faced piston rings for this motor ? The rebuild kit has chrome rings. I don't think model T technology is a good thing for this motor.

You building an all out race/pulling engine or a stock rebuild?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Quagmire

Thanks. Does anybody make a set of molly faced piston rings for this motor ? The rebuild kit has chrome rings. I don't think model T technology is a good thing for this motor.

Nothing wrong with chrome rings,they arent model "T" tech.
In those days pistons and rings were cast iron.
From Hastings:

HASTINGS PISTON RING SET COMPOSITION RECOMMENDATIONS:


When asked if he wants a piston ring set with moly, chrome, or cast iron faced top compression rings the mechanic often returns the question to the jobber salesman by saying, "What should I use?"

There is some confusion in the trade as to what type ring set should be used. Hastings would like to offer some suggestions to help the consumer make the proper decision for his particular application.

The single most important factor to be considered in selecting the proper top compression ring face coating material is the service requirements the engine will be operated under. Will the engine be subjected to unusual speed or load operation, stop and go - short trip driving, or operating in a high dust or dirt environment? if, for example, the vehicle is a passenger car operated by family members for what could be termed the average driver, it really doesn't matter which type is selected from a standpoint of the life of the engine and piston rings. On the other hand if one of the above mentioned conditions is going to exist on a regular basis then no doubt one type of ring face coating will be more appropriate than the others.

The three popular types of top compression ring face coatings, chrome, moly, and cast iron, each has advantages of its own with respect to operating conditions. Moly has a very high resistance to scuff. Chrome has good resistance to scuff but does not exhibit moly's oil retention capabilities. Plain cast iron is a durable wear surface in normal operating conditions and is less costly than the moly or chrome faced ring.



For typical light duty service where the vehicle Is not subjected to long periods of high speed or load operation and is run primarily on paved streets, plain cast iron is a good choice because piston ring cast iron Is very durable when not subjected to unusual dirt or heat conditions.

When faced with continuous high speed or severe load conditions, the engine will be subjected to long periods of high temperatures. Moly Is then a good choice because of its scuff resistance. Moly, which is an acronym for molybdenum, inherently is quite porous in its applied state which results in excellent retention of oil in the face of the ring. Moly also has the highest melting point of the three popular face coatings which results in its capability to live better under more severe operating conditions, or more specifically to resist scuffing and scoring.

In a dusty environment such as gravel pits, sand or rock mines, or operating on a dirt or unpaved roads, chrome is the best choice. As mentioned earlier, moly because of Its porosity holds oil on the O.D. face of the ring which helps inhibit scuffing. Pores on the material also can serve as a trap for foreign materials, however. Because of the incoming air/fuel mixture probably will contain some abrasive contaminant In a dusty environment, chrome with its smoother O.D. surface is a logical choice. Chrome's extreme density and hardness resists the Impingement of dirt Into the face of the ring which accelerates cylinder wear, and actually contributes to the exhaust gases carrying some of the airborne contaminant out through the exhaust system. Chrome has more resistance to scuffing and scoring than cast iron but somewhat less than moly.

All in-all when the engine experiences normal driving conditions and is properly maintained with respect to oil and air filter changes, any of the three coatings functions equally well. It is the installer's expert judgement in analyzing the primary use of the engine that should lead him in a direction of which ring set will be the best possible choice for that particular customer's engine.

[cubcadet1650128]

i have one of those in my puller for a k301 and they r pretty decent and not a bad price they are tiwan parts but almost as good as nos

[mickb72]

Thanks Ol'George for explaning rig sets. Mike

[Quagmire]

This factory manual leaves a lot to be desired as far as clearances go.

[Quagmire]

I bored the cylinder and tried the torque plate on it last night. I wasn't having any problem keeping it within .0001 -.00015" out of round. In one small band at the top it changed it an additional + .0002" but overall it stayed within .0002" out of round after I removed the plate. It didn't effect taper & overall wasn't much of a change, in just one small spot. I won't bother with one again unless it was some sort of competition engine.