1650 Refurb

[IH Cub Cadet]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Technically, I think that makes it a 1450?

You are correct. I guess if I didn't have a correct 16 hp engine setting in my basement for it, I'd change the decals and call it a 1450. One of these days if I rebuild the 16 hp and put in the 1650, all will be good!

Maybe I should call it a 1650/14...

[Cub-N-It]

Things are sounding good now Bill !
You are making some excellant progress with your 1650 especially considering all the other things in your life you are juggling. If your k321 is in good shape, I think it will give you all the power you need. In fact you might like it enough to not change over to the K341.
My latest project is replacing the engine in a RED 310-8. I have removed the old worn out
M10, and replacing it with a K301. That will give me a nice upgrade in engine power. I removed all the old wiring to change that over also as the K is a contact points engine, and the M is a magneto engine.
Anyway friend, press on with it. I'll be here monitoring your progress

[IH Cub Cadet]

Update: Found some time yesterday evening to have a look-see as to why when I turn the ignition switch, I get a click and no spin on the starter. Prior to this, I had to rewire the ignition switch and put-in a new solenoid. From the battery to the ignition to the solenoid, all was good. I changed out the starter motor with another known good one, but nothing. Finally with volt/ohm meter, I determined I had no ground from the engine to the chassis. I ran a ground strap to the chassis and the engine cranks GREAT!

When I bought this tractor, the hood was already removed the engine unbolted. I don't recall ever seeing a ground strap, but the lesson learned is this - the ISO mounts are there to reduce vibration, but do a nice job of electrically isolating the engine from ground too - LOL!

However, not out of the woods yet. Once I got the engine cranking, no spark.

I'll deal with that soon enough!

Thanks,
Bill

[IH Cub Cadet]

Another update: Once I got the tractor so it would crank - no fire at the plug at all! Found the condenser was bad, so replaced that and just to be on the safe side, replaced the points and coil with a known good coil. Set the points per the Kohler manual and give it a crank - no fire - EXCEPT as I let off the ignition switch.

On further investigation, I've got spark in the RUN position, but not in the START position. I think I've got a bad switch. I'll try to run a temporary wire from the battery to the + side of the coil (with a switch in between). Hopefully this will verify if the switch is bad.

[Juicybusa]

Make certain your ignition switch is wired/connected correctly. Typically there is a run and a start post that must be connected correctly or you will experience exactly the scenario you describe.

[IH Cub Cadet]

Good news! I went out this evening to run a wire from the battery on my 1650 to the coil and see if I had a bad switch, but last night I pulled the ignition switch to have another look-see at the terminals and wiring to it. Before I could do anything with the battery to coil wiring, I needed a reinstalled switch that could crank the engine in the first place.

I figured while I was re-wiring the switch (the connnector that normally plugs all wires into the switch has been long gone for some time - so attaching individual wires to the switch) I decided to cut the sheathing off the wiring harness so I could get at and for sure trace all wiring against my wiring diagram. So I slowly traced and reattached everything.

Cleared the mess, pulled the choke, turned the key - the engine fired on the first try. Runs smooth, smoke free and really quieter than my 109 or 126. The 122 is the quietest - but then again, it doesn't have a motor in it...

So here's where I've been with this tractor:

- Bought the tractor on Feb 2, 2012.
- Did a cradle mod, replaced the iso mounts.
- Added a Super Steer kit.
- Did a squeeze on the front axle clevis.
- Replaced aluminum oil pan with cast iron one.
- New oil pan gasket.
- Decarb'd the head, new head gasket.
- Added muffler crutch.
- Replaced driveshaft fan.
- New points, plug, condenser, swapped-in good coil.
- Added engine to chassis ground strap

And probably a few more things.

So now I've got a tractor together, though when I was fooling around with the engine, found it was a 14 hp - not a 16 hp engine, but found a very rebuildable K341AQS that will some day get a rebuild and install into this tractor.

I also picked up a 50C deck from a later model CCC tractor and think I can swap out the center pulley for one that fits the belt on this tractor.

Other things I need to do are:

- Wire-tie the wiring harness back together.
- Reattach the center hump cover
- Fix the front tires such that they don't leak down
- Find an IH emblem for the hood.
- Reattach the hood.
- Verify the PTO works.
- Replace the hytran fluid and filter

I'll likely use this tractor around the house this winter for a wood hauler and snow plow. Hopefully it can become a for real deal mowing machine/worker for next spring.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Next up - Chapter II of the 1650.

Bill

[zippy1]

Congrats on your accomplishments thus far

[Cubcrazy]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Congrats on your accomplishments thus far

X2!

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by leeave96

Good news! I went out this evening to run a wire from the battery on my 1650 to the coil and see if I had a bad switch, but last night I pulled the ignition switch to have another look-see at the terminals and wiring to it. Before I could do anything with the battery to coil wiring, I needed a reinstalled switch that could crank the engine in the first place.

I figured while I was re-wiring the switch (the connnector that normally plugs all wires into the switch has been long gone for some time - so attaching individual wires to the switch) I decided to cut the sheathing off the wiring harness so I could get at and for sure trace all wiring against my wiring diagram. So I slowly traced and reattached everything.

Cleared the mess, pulled the choke, turned the key - the engine fired on the first try. Runs smooth, smoke free and really quieter than my 109 or 126. The 122 is the quietest - but then again, it doesn't have a motor in it...

So here's where I've been with this tractor:

- Bought the tractor on Feb 2, 2012.
- Did a cradle mod, replaced the iso mounts.
- Added a Super Steer kit.
- Did a squeeze on the front axle clevis.
- Replaced aluminum oil pan with cast iron one.
- New oil pan gasket.
- Decarb'd the head, new head gasket.
- Added muffler crutch.
- Replaced driveshaft fan.
- New points, plug, condenser, swapped-in good coil.
- Added engine to chassis ground strap

And probably a few more things.

So now I've got a tractor together, though when I was fooling around with the engine, found it was a 14 hp - not a 16 hp engine, but found a very rebuildable K341AQS that will some day get a rebuild and install into this tractor.

I also picked up a 50C deck from a later model CCC tractor and think I can swap out the center pulley for one that fits the belt on this tractor.

Other things I need to do are:

- Wire-tie the wiring harness back together.
- Reattach the center hump cover
- Fix the front tires such that they don't leak down
- Find an IH emblem for the hood.
- Reattach the hood.
- Verify the PTO works.
- Replace the hytran fluid and filter

I'll likely use this tractor around the house this winter for a wood hauler and snow plow. Hopefully it can become a for real deal mowing machine/worker for next spring.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Next up - Chapter II of the 1650.

Bill

That's great, Bill!

[IH Cub Cadet]

1650 is now complete , running and drivable. We will shake it down doing firewood hauling this winter.

Here it is after a few trips around the yard.