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  #21  
Old 06-14-2014, 04:37 PM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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When I manage to find a good ground for my test light, I test for power from the battery to the solenoid switch and get power. I don't seem to get power from the solenoid switch to the starter......................

First clue is that most 1450's have two studs located on the dash tower which to mount the solenoid switch...... I went to remove the solenoid switch and the top nut was loose,..........................

Next, I went to remove the lower nut and found there was no lower nut securing the solenoid switch ?

The questions I have are:

1. Did I loose ground to my solenoid switch causing the switch to short out?

2. Would this improper ground not allow a proper connection to keep my battery charged?

I did not find another nut, but I have one. I did try to tighten the top nut, and gave the key a bump and nothing.........

Mean while, I have a new Ford solenoid switch, and another solenoid switch from a parts tractor that may also be worth a chance being good.

Going to disconnect the positive cable from the battery and continue to remove the switch, and then get the battery charger on the battery......

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  #22  
Old 06-14-2014, 04:40 PM
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That sounds like it might be your problem. If you have power to the signal terminal and the main power cable, and nothing out when you turn the key, the solenoid is not switching. I'd jump ground to the "case", or the mounting plate from the - batt terminal and see if it cranks.
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  #23  
Old 06-14-2014, 05:42 PM
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First of all, I wish to thank the group here at Only Cub Cadets! I really appreciate the many replies and suggestions, I read through them all carefully and found all seemingly accurate to the best of my knowledge. Just for looking into the situation and probable causes before I picked up the wrench..........

The 1450 is ALIVE! Runs and drives fine. The new Ford starter solenoid I had in stock worked just fine in a pinch, it was one for my 1988 Ford Crown Vic 5.0 .

Glad my problem turned out to be something as simple as it was, though the lesson was at the expense of a new starter solenoid. Just happy we're going on......I sort of was having serious with-drawls from the yellow fever, lol!

So, Quiet Line owners....might not hurt to check your starter solenoid switch and make sure it is tight against the ground, along with your 8 engine fasteners now and again!

Happy Father's Day,

cheers!

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  #24  
Old 06-14-2014, 05:45 PM
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Way to Go Bud. Back in the Saddle Again!
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  #25  
Old 06-14-2014, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johncub7172 View Post

So, Quiet Line owners....might not hurt to check your starter solenoid switch and make sure it is tight against the ground, along with your 8 engine fasteners now and again!

Happy Father's Day,

cheers!

Glad you find your "gremlins"

I change all the electric harness , ignition switch , PTO switch and fuse holder on my QL1650, I add a Bosh blue ignition coil, a high performance ignition wire and a "point saver", all from Kirk engine Inc. , the only part I didn't mess with was the solenoid, regulator and magneto, they all test good but after 38 years of services and counting it's maybe the weak point to keep a eye on.

Wish your 1450 purr like a kitten for many more years

Good "Dada" day
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  #26  
Old 06-14-2014, 09:44 PM
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Great news, John!
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  #27  
Old 06-14-2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
First thing I would check is the terminal plug that plugs onto the ignition switch. Same thing happened on my 682. Didn't have time to search out a new 5 pin connector so I just put on individual push connectors on the wires and plugged onto the switch.
Thank you for this tip. I did check here, and made sure power was going to the switch. I then used some electric grease here as well! Funny you mention individual push connectors/ 5 pin connector......

My parts tractor 5 pin connector is wired this way. But all the wires used are red. I have many color of wire which I can rewire the 5 pin connector. I was rather unaware of this!

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  #28  
Old 06-14-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
Just use the 72 from now on.....0

sounds like a dead bat or a loose connection...
I enjoy the humor! Good thing the 1450 was close to the shop,....... This sucker is heavy to push with one arm, and hold back the dump/release valve with the other arm, lol!

Sure don't push like a all-gear IH Cub Cadet!
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  #29  
Old 06-14-2014, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Glad you find your "gremlins"

I change all the electric harness , ignition switch , PTO switch and fuse holder on my QL1650, I add a Bosh blue ignition coil, a high performance ignition wire and a "point saver", all from Kirk engine Inc. , the only part I didn't mess with was the solenoid, regulator and magneto, they all test good but after 38 years of services and counting it's maybe the weak point to keep a eye on.

Wish your 1450 purr like a kitten for many more years

Good "Dada" day
Thank you! I went through the 1450 from top to bottom. Never gave a thought to checking the solenoid fasteners. Here is the bran new starter solenoid that lost ground and shorted out.

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  #30  
Old 06-14-2014, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ACecil View Post
Great news, John!
Thank you Allen! I adjusted the hood, as I mentioned earlier. Now I have a much quieter Quiet Line! But what thread would be complete with out a picture of what we're working on,....?



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