3pt hitch fitting question

[Chetman]

Thanks. Interesting option in that link using cat 1 arms. Used cat 1 attachments seem more available and lighter stuff may work.
I know the 3pt hitches are better, just not sure 150x better? I'll look at my sleeve hitch next week (200 miles away) and call Ruegg about some options. I was just thinking sleeve hitch cheaper and wouldn't have to buy adapter for cat 0.
I REALLY want the oem look cat 0 hitch though. May have to sell something !

[Chetman]

Once I get the hitch worked out, the #401 front blade and the #378 hydraulic angle attachment will be the next quest. I have a feeling I'd better get ready to sell something else to find that project too.
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[ccpullin]

[QUOTE=J-Mech;271923]While all this is mostly true, the distance between the upper and lower links is the same on the super. Just taller tires. And why would he have to remove the lower hitch (drawbar)? It can stay on with the sleeve hitch.

It's all true, yes you need to remove the hitch plate (behind the hitch) to get to the rear axle housing to install lower sleeve hitch mount and should lower the mount also for equipment to run level. The upper sleeve hitch rod will hit the hitch plate if not removed.

Most equipment is designed to be operated level when attached to the draw bar (typically designed height for 23" tall tires). When installed on 26" tires (and remember they run a narrow rim on Supers so they are even taller in the center) it moves the draw bar up higher from the ground being bolted to the rear axle housing. You can relocate the draw bar height lower ( modify plate and re-drill holes) to a more level point for attachments although on anything with a fixed length lift link would throw off the lowering capabilities so it would need to be lengthened the same as the draw bar was dropped.

For instance a rear tiller on a non super is designed to go approximately 6" in the ground. Raise the draw bar height 3" to 4" and it changes the depth (yes you can adjust the lifting chain to make up for some of it). You can simulate this by placing a 4X4 under the rear tires and seeing how much it throws the attachment off when raising the draw bar height. Single bottom plows can be adjusted for the draw bar height and depth in the ground by adjusting the crank.

You also find this on front mount snow blowers such as the 450 model where they have adaptor plates and longer lift links dropping it to make up the difference in height of the Super so the blower runs level and is not pitched forward.

Operating equipment such as snow blades on trucks (and garden tractors), this pivot point is very critical as to how the blade operates and is why there are so many adjustment holes in brackets for its height adjustments on trucks (I installed Western Snow Plows for several years). Too low and the blade rides up over the snow and too high it trips easily.

[J-Mech]

[QUOTE=ccpullin;271978]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

While all this is mostly true, the distance between the upper and lower links is the same on the super. Just taller tires. And why would he have to remove the lower hitch (drawbar)? It can stay on with the sleeve hitch.

It's all true, yes you need to remove the hitch plate (behind the hitch) to get to the rear axle housing to install lower sleeve hitch mount and should lower the mount also for equipment to run level. The upper sleeve hitch rod will hit the hitch plate if not removed.

What are you talking about? The upper sleeve hitch rod will hit the ditch plate? Not that I have ever seen.....

As far as the rest, yes, supers are taller. There are adjustments built in to most implements. It's still an easy job to install, and NBD to get it working right. It's not difficult.

[ccpullin]

[QUOTE=J-Mech;272013]

Originally Posted by ccpullin

What are you talking about? The upper sleeve hitch rod will hit the ditch plate? Not that I have ever seen.....

As far as the rest, yes, supers are taller. There are adjustments built in to most implements. It's still an easy job to install, and NBD to get it working right. It's not difficult.

This sleeve hitch on a Super may be more difficult for some than others to install having to make frame side plates and a longer actuator rod to the rock shaft.

http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...6-A/0040360025

Item #9, hitch plate assembly (hitch plate) - will need to be removed to install sleeve hitch on a 2182.

Cub Cadet, CCC, and MTD never designed any of its Super tractors for a sleeve hitch, nor were sleeve hitch attachments designed for Supers. Modifications can be made to make them useable, best one being the cat 0 to sleeve hitch adaptor.

I have (4) 2182's, 1572, 1772, 2082, 2084, 2284, 1872 All Supers along with a 1440, 169 and a 1650, with the majority (all but 3) having hitches either cat 0 or sleeve and I have the cat 0 to sleeve hitch adaptor along with many sleeve hitch attachments so I believe I know what I am talking about.

How many Supers do you have, and how many of them have sleeve hitches on them? I would like to see how you got around not removing the "hitch plate" assembly. If you can attach a picture it would be great!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by ccpullin

How many Supers do you have, and how many of them have sleeve hitches on them? I would like to see how you got around not removing the "hitch plate" assembly. If you can attach a picture it would be great!

I don't have any supers.

When you said remove the hitch plate, I thought you were talking about the drawbar.

I really thought it went without saying that the rear "hitch plate" would have to be removed. DUH, you can't put a sleeve hitch on with it there. But, you can bolt the drawbar to the rear of the trans.

You don't have to get all nobody said that sleeve hitches were meant for supers. It really is an easy thing to get around the tractor being taller. Heck, a lot of plow guys put 26X12X12 tires on their GT and have no issues. It's an easy problem to solve.

I'm done debating with you. You think it's a hard job, fine. Tell us how to get around these "big problems". I seriously doubt you are going to surprise me, or tell me something I don't know. I've spent all my life on tractors and equipment, and for the last 15 years, I've made my living fixing and building equipment.

[ccpullin]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I don't have any supers.

When you said remove the hitch plate, I thought you were talking about the drawbar.

I really thought it went without saying that the rear "hitch plate" would have to be removed. DUH, you can't put a sleeve hitch on with it there. But, you can bolt the drawbar to the rear of the trans.

You don't have to get all nobody said that sleeve hitches were meant for supers. It really is an easy thing to get around the tractor being taller. Hell, a lot of plow guys put 26X12X12 tires on their GT and have no issues. It's an easy problem to solve.

I'm done debating with you. You think it's a hard job, fine. Tell us how to get around these "big problems". I seriously doubt you are going to surprise me, or tell me something I don't know. I've spent all my life on tractors and equipment, and for the last 15 years, I've made my living fixing and building equipment.

On a previous post here I made 3 simple suggestions to the member on what needed to be done installing a sleeve hitch on a 2182 Super and you questioned them until I had to go in to detail.

I have been a mechanic for 41 years and have worked at 3 different Cub Cadet dealerships over that time. I just don't appreciate a person stating I am not telling the truth as you did in this thread, and the one where he was interested in purchasing the 2182 where I made suggestions on what to look for including the statement TO CHECK OVER THE PLASTIC AS SOME PLASTIC WAS NO LONGER AVAILABLE FOR IT. You may not agree all the time but how about showing a little more courtesy towards others opinions and not stating they are untruthful.

Enough Said!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by ccpullin

On a previous post here I made 3 simple suggestions to the member on what needed to be done installing a sleeve hitch on a 2182 Super and you questioned them until I had to go in to detail.

I have been a mechanic for 41 years and have worked at 3 different Cub Cadet dealerships over that time. I just don't appreciate a person stating I am not telling the truth as you did in this thread, and the one where he was interested in purchasing the 2182 where I made suggestions on what to look for including the statement TO CHECK OVER THE PLASTIC AS SOME PLASTIC WAS NO LONGER AVAILABLE FOR IT. You may not agree all the time but how about showing a little more courtesy towards others opinions and not stating they are untruthful.

Enough Said!

I never said you lied. If you took my statement as that then I apologize.

Outside of that, you and I just see it differently.

[Chetman]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input and suggestions. I'm somewhat notorious for making things work, but I'm not going to be removing a hitch plate to loose just to save a couple hundred bucks. I'll be happier in the long run just putting the Ruegg 3 pt hitch on with adapter plate sor the stuff I've got. If like to keep is as original as possible, and I'll be able to get my $ back out of it should I ever sell it in the distant future.
Thanks for all the help, this is a Great site with Great members!