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  #21  
Old 09-02-2014, 05:44 PM
o---o o---o is offline
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'


So my Dad finally found the other set of blades that used to be on Cubby that I'd been asking him for. I noticed the end of the blade is curved up much more on the blades he gave me, whereas the blades on there are nearly flat.

OMG WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The blades that are nearly flat kept clogging up and would eject grass only about 4 feet. These arched blades cut knee high wet grass with no problems and eject grass about 12 feet! It's like a whole different machine.

So, I see Cub has 3 part numbers listed for each of the two blade lengths. On eBay they sell sets claiming for bagger use with 2 blades of one lift and a different lift on the third blade. What part number is for this high lit blade I have now? Or where do you guys find your aggressive blades?

Pictured is the high lift blade on the left and the nearly flat blade on the right
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:03 AM
ccannon222 ccannon222 is offline
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Can't help on the part #'s. However I am using Oregon replacement blades on my 46GT and they have the steep curve your father's blades have. They cut great and bag great. Only issues is they windrow badly. I've never used this deck with any other blade so I can't comment on the difference between Oregon and Cub blades.

Looking at Oregon's blade list, they show Gator blades for the 46LT deck. They are 2.5 wide as opposed to 3" wide like the 46GT. Shell is the same so they should work. Not sure about the cut quality though.

Chris
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2014, 11:09 AM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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I don't know the part numbers either, but I will put a plug in for Gater Blades. I have the G3's on my 54GT and the performance is GREAT. I've said it in other posts and threads before but I'll say it again here; I've had decks from the triangle style, to QL style, to 83 series, and now I've had the 48/54GT style. Not only are the deck shells great, but combined with a good set of blades, you can't beat it. I don't have any wind-rowing problems, either, and I use the mulching blades with the high arc like pictured above. Give 'em a shot, they are worth the money!
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2014, 12:21 PM
Texas Blues Texas Blues is offline
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I have never ran one of those 46" decks, however I do know the "hayfield" effect. There seems to only 2 things that will stop that, both I think have already been mentioned. One is to wait till it is dry, the other is to cut it on the highest deck setting when it gets to tall. Once the grass is out of control tall, I dont thing there will be much you can do but to take it down in "shifts" and deal with the hayfield look until its back under control.
I guess Im saying that every mower I have will make the hayfield look when those conditions are present. And yes, Im as guilty as anyone by letting the grass get too tall in between mowing. I have lost my "yard of the month" trophy countless times because of the hayfield (not really, they wouldnt have me in that club). TB
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  #25  
Old 09-03-2014, 01:38 PM
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I was doing good at keeping mine short, but then I didn't mow for 3 weeks because of 2 unrelated breakdowns. It wouldn't be so bad if parts were stocked locally, but it seems nearly everything I need has to be ordered which really adds to the downtime.

I'm not for sure what is meant by wind row, but I'm guessing a row of cut grass laying on top with a bare spot then another row of cut grass? I don't really have any rows, but a more uniform covering of the yard that is killing everything underneath.
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  #26  
Old 09-03-2014, 02:32 PM
ccannon222 ccannon222 is offline
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My 46GT will windrow even in the grass is dry and short. The deck shoots out the clippings in a VERY narrow stream. Works great when bagging, but not so much without.

However I will say that my 46GT with the high lift blades will cut through tall thick grass at high speeds with no problem. My 44C I have to mow at much slower speeds when the grass it tall.

Chris
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  #27  
Old 09-03-2014, 02:37 PM
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PaulS PaulS is offline
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I have a 54 inch deck on my 2084 and it was always clogging up and throwing the grass out in clumps. This spring I scraped, brushed, and power washed the underside till it was as clean and smooth as I could get it. I then painted the underside with some graphite paint I got at TSC. That has helped a good deal but still I get several spots that clog up. My fix to the windrowing problem was not cheap but is very effective. I bought a tow behind DR lawn vac that I pick up the grass the day after mowing. Infact I purposely windrow the grass so I do not have to go over the whole lawn the next day. That Dr hooked to my mower does a great job on grass clippings and dead leaves and even sawdust from wood cutting.
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  #28  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:36 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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So do they make blades with the big "wind wing" for the 38", 42" and 48" cast center triangle type deck?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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