149 Super Fast????

[Rob C]

As far as the drive pin goes..The replacement I bought is smooth and has no way to hold it in place ( e-clips/pins). It keeps working itself out. Should I drill holes and pin it or is there another trick that I'm missing?

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by Rob C

As far as the drive pin goes..The replacement I bought is smooth and has no way to hold it in place ( e-clips/pins). It keeps working itself out. Should I drill holes and pin it or is there another trick that I'm missing?

Sounds like the holes wallered out.

[dbuck]

ps; I only run aprox 1/2 RPM, as I don't mow with it.[/QUOTE]

For MAX cooling efect it should be run at full throttle.

[garnold]

Originally Posted by dbuck

ps; I only run aprox 1/2 RPM, as I don't mow with it.

For MAX cooling efect it should be run at full throttle. [/QUOTE]

I actually started a thread on this full throttle topic and got mixed opinions on this.
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28003

Also, here is the thread I started about hydro vs gear speeds
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34481

A little more reading on the topics for you

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by dbuck

For MAX cooling effect it should be run at full throttle.

It only needs max cooling under load. If not under load, WOT not needed. When mowing you need it WOT for blade tip speed. Any other uses.... throttle as needed. Saying you have to run an air cooled engine fast for cooling is like saying that you need to run your car at high rpm. It runs the fan faster that way right? Moves more air at higher RPM doesn't it? You do not need to run them WOT all the time. I use the throttle on my cubs just as I would on any tractor. As necessary.

[snoel]

I know that manufacturers recommend WOT for air cooled yard/garden engines. And most people take that at face value. Manufacturers do that to cover themselves. And for the average person, that is the safe way to operate.

I have been operating machinery for over 60 years. I am factory trained GM mechanic, A&P aircraft mechanic, as well as several other mechanical pursuits. Being able to judge ambient temps, engine loads, etc, allows me to take care of an ageing piece of equipment, and still get the max performance from it. Old machinery and old men are a lot alike. Don't push us too hard and we still have some work left in us.

I appreciate the concern and helpfulness of you folks. I don't take lightly, any help, advice, etc. I don't recommend that everyone, do as I do.

My 149 seems to be performing quite happily, and that makes me happy.

[Rob C]

Originally Posted by garnold

The governor might have broke and it's not working properly. Do you have an RPM gauge? You should be in the 3200 to 3800 range.

I ordered one. It should be here thursday along with the muffler. I also tightened up the linkage on speed control to help me not shove it foward. I'll have better answers after I check the RPMs.

Thx guys!! Very much appreciated. That engine manual will definately come in handy.

[Rob C]

RPM guauge came in.. I was at about 7000..at about 1/2 throttle..Wow. Knew it was revvin too high so I didnt let it run that long but, damn. I readjusted stop and all is better. I'm still impressed with the speed it has compared to the lawn mowers I've own/owned.

[garnold]

Holy cow! That is crazy high. Glad you still have a running engine :-)

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Rob C

I was at about 7000..at about 1/2 throttle..Wow.

I'm incredibly skeptical. The cast flywheel's start exploding much above 4K. At 7K....... pretty fast.

So, you got it down to 3600?