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  #21  
Old 03-06-2015, 12:36 PM
raytasch raytasch is offline
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Thanks, Sam. I got it to fire and stumble on propane so I guess the carb is stopped up somewhere. I cleaned the outside so I can see what it looks like.There was fuel in the bowl. Could be the solenoid is stuck or maybe the circuitry to it. Should I see movement or hear a click when power is applied to it? This new fancy government designed stuff is new to me.
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  #22  
Old 03-06-2015, 02:12 PM
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I opened up the carb bowl and snipped off the brass rod that serves as the shut off/ anti diesel that is connected to the solenoid. then the gas flowed and started right up. Good luck with yours. Don
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2015, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
Thanks, Sam. I got it to fire and stumble on propane so I guess the carb is stopped up somewhere. I cleaned the outside so I can see what it looks like.There was fuel in the bowl. Could be the solenoid is stuck or maybe the circuitry to it. Should I see movement or hear a click when power is applied to it? This new fancy government designed stuff is new to me.
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Originally Posted by KayakDon View Post
I opened up the carb bowl and snipped off the brass rod that serves as the shut off/ anti diesel that is connected to the solenoid. then the gas flowed and started right up. Good luck with yours. Don
Yep thank you EPA. You should hear a click when you turn the key to run or feel it you may need to have someone turn the key on and off. Quick and dirty way to fix it is to do what Don did. I just had to get fancy and drill it out and put a 3/8" freeze plug in my carb. I'd drain out what ever is in the float bowl anyway. Good that it at least wants to run on propane.
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2015, 04:03 PM
raytasch raytasch is offline
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I pulled and cleaned the carb, not bad actually much cleaner than I expected. Nothing that should have kept it from running. I cleaned it anyway, blew out all the jets. I filled the plug in the bottom of the carb with solder (wish I would have read about cutting off the valve), reinstalled the carb and she fired right off. Sounds good, smooth idle. Alternator putting out 13.9 V at idle. So it was time to back it out of the garage and test drive. No leaks, deck lift smooth, power steering smooth hydro smooth forward and reverse. Brakes good. PTO clutch and deck work fine. I noticed a later replacement PTO clutch, looks new.
I do need to replace the fan belt. Pull the engine or drive shaft, which is easier?
I will have to do some welding on the deck but it works good.
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  #25  
Old 03-06-2015, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
I pulled and cleaned the carb, not bad actually much cleaner than I expected. Nothing that should have kept it from running. I cleaned it anyway, blew out all the jets. I filled the plug in the bottom of the carb with solder (wish I would have read about cutting off the valve), reinstalled the carb and she fired right off. Sounds good, smooth idle. Alternator putting out 13.9 V at idle. So it was time to back it out of the garage and test drive. No leaks, deck lift smooth, power steering smooth hydro smooth forward and reverse. Brakes good. PTO clutch and deck work fine. I noticed a later replacement PTO clutch, looks new.
I do need to replace the fan belt. Pull the engine or drive shaft, which is easier?I will have to do some welding on the deck but it works good.
Pull the complete drive shaft. Guaranteed the CV joints need to be cleaned out anyway. The old grease turns into something resembling concrete mixed with wax.
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  #26  
Old 03-06-2015, 07:06 PM
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Agree with Sam on pulling the drive shaft. Easy to do. Order new seals for both ends of drive shaft. Easy to clean and grease too. Belt replacement is a snap with shaft removed. Don
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  #27  
Old 03-08-2015, 07:30 PM
raytasch raytasch is offline
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Ok, update. Dropped the deck to see how much work it needed. Actually, just a few welds and paint. A later part of the project.
Removed the front axle assembly. I don't think the king pin, axle pin was ever greased. Quite a bit of slop in the spindle bushings so I'll replace them, wheel bearings on one side and a couple heim joints.
Now the question. How does that idler arm come out? I pulled the snap ring, have a grade 8 bolt in the center thread and tried it with a big slide hammer. Tight, no movement. Am I missing something?
OK, I answered my question. A steady pull screwing with the bolt and out it came,,,,,,,,burned up with grease, just like the king pin. PB blast is good stuff.
It is beer thirty, eastern daylight saving time. I'll service the driveshaft and replace the fan belt tomorrow.
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:00 PM
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Ray

You are going to have a sweet 2182 when your done with it. Good to see it getting what it needs. Too bad the PO's didn't take care of them. I guess that's why they get sold as cheap as they do.
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2015, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KayakDon View Post
Agree with Sam on pulling the drive shaft. Easy to do. Order new seals for both ends of drive shaft. Easy to clean and grease too. Belt replacement is a snap with shaft removed. Don
Are they seals or just boots on that drive shaft?

What a great find!
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2015, 09:53 PM
raytasch raytasch is offline
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Are they seals or just boots on that drive shaft?

What a great find!
I don't think they're anything but boots. I'll find out tomorrow.
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