The Fun Begins - Page 3

Sam Mac · #21 04-25-2015, 07:43 PM

Looking at that pic I still think the valve body could be machined for an O-Ring fitting like I posted before. If one of you have a valve and feel like sending it to me I'll see if it will play. I have no need for extra hydraulics on my stuff so I'm not going to spring for a valve.

PGHsteelworker · #22 04-25-2015, 10:39 PM

A steel hydraulic compression fitting will work just fine with no problems as long as the steel tube is in good condition.

gdheck · #23 05-10-2015, 02:24 AM

Group,
I realized the other day why your picture looks weird and the flange part is too small. Cub Cadet used a 3/8" line with the push to connect style flange, but the part that goes into the valve is 5/16". The 3/8" line and flange would probably be right to fit the clamp, but there has to be a way to make the end smaller. I want to try swaging it down onto a mandrel and use my hydraulic flaring tool to make the push to connect fitting. I just need to find the time for it and a lot of other projects.

cnsolutions · #24 05-10-2015, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Group_44

http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html

I think this is the tool you are talking about. It's a bit pricey but I may bite the bullet since it will do just about every flare you can imagine. The particular flare that closely resembles the CC style is for GM push on fuel line connections. I am in the process of trying a repair line I found in the help section of Advance Auto to see if it will work in the valve.

I have the snap on version and it works great.

Group_44 · #25 05-10-2015, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdheck

Group,
I realized the other day why your picture looks weird and the flange part is too small. Cub Cadet used a 3/8" line with the push to connect style flange, but the part that goes into the valve is 5/16". The 3/8" line and flange would probably be right to fit the clamp, but there has to be a way to make the end smaller. I want to try swaging it down onto a mandrel and use my hydraulic flaring tool to make the push to connect fitting. I just need to find the time for it and a lot of other projects.

Yep, you are exactly right, that's what I realized too. I bought the hydraulic flaring set and started trying to make some lines. When I measured the inside of the port and used 5/16" tubing and found as you indicated the flange was too small. I then tried making one from 3/8" which gives the correct size flange and then chucking it up in the lathe and turning the end down to 5/16" but the wall was paper thin at that point. If you figure a way to swage the end down to 5/16" without distorting the o-ring surface that will work. I also thought about a back up washer between the clamp and the tube flange, I found a couple of mil spec washers in the race car parts box that has an ID the same size as the tube. I also haven't given up on Sam's idea of machining the port to accept a straight thread pipe fitting, I have been collecting valves and will send him one to try his idea.

J-Mech · #26 05-10-2015, 11:01 AM

Try sticking more of the steel line out of the end of the block instead of leaving it flush. It will make the flange larger.

Group_44 · #27 05-10-2015, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Try sticking more of the steel line out of the en.d of the block instead of leaving it flush. It will make the flange larger.

That make sense, will give it a try.

Group_44 · #28 05-10-2015, 12:58 PM

I tried it a couple of times with different amounts passed the end of the die and I keep getting two flanges, one on top of the other but not much wider.

J-Mech · #29 05-10-2015, 02:46 PM

Ok.... so I went out and got out the flaring tool and started playing. I see the issues you guys are having. I honestly haven't ever needed to make any of these. I have the tool, I saw the fitting and just thought "yeah, that will work". Should have attempted it, so for that I'm sorry. I think the washer idea is ok as long as it sits flush. I tried it and it cocks in the bore. I don't like the double o-ring deal in your pic though. I don't have any 3/8" line here to play with.... apparently, I'm out. Keep trying guys and I'll get some 3/8" line and see what I can come up with. I still don't like tapping the valve, but it may work. If you are going to try that, I'd suggest going to a o-ring face seal and not pipe.... but I'd have to scour the taps in the tool books and see where to even get that thread tap.

Good going, really! Just keep trying.

Sam Mac · #30 05-10-2015, 03:22 PM

I agree with the o-ring face seal. That's what I plan on seeing if my machinist can do.